Edith – An artists smock style loose fitting tunic for everyday wear. Straightforward to make with easy sew long sleeves, a deep round neck, lots of cross seams and topstitching (oh yes I do love topstitching!) and two inset pockets. Edith has an open loop and button back neck detail so its easy to get on and off. Theres lots of room in this tunic to move, eat and do what you will!
The finished length is on the knee or just above. See below for the finished garment measurements.
Please note that the horizontal pocket seam is designed to sit approx 5cm (2″) below the waistline. 
You can sew a single or double line of topstitching as you prefer.
Heres a close up of those nifty inset pockets which are hidden within the seam line. Before you start, its a good idea to measure where the pocket seam line will be on you. If you need to make any adjustments to the length of the upper and lower body sections, you can do this before you cut out. by tracing off the pattern and making alterations. Just extend or shorten the lower edge of the upper front and back by sliding the pattern down or up, then match up at the sides. Repeat for the lower section.
The Back neck opening with a rouleau loop, shown below, is such a good technique to get under your sewing belt.
Or you could also make a sleeveless smock top version like this one:
I made it 12cm shorter on the lower front and back section only. I didn’t attach the sleeves, just turned under a small 1cm hem and stitched a double row of topstitching.
To shorten the pattern just mark out the length up from the lower edge, then slide the pattern down and redraw the lower curved edge.
I also tried topstitched above the pocket seam which is an alternative method which also looks good.
Please note: For a shorter Smock Top version you will need 50cm less fabric than the pattern states for your size.
A Note about Topstitching. If you prefer to have contrast colour top stitching, use a different coloured thread in the needle and the background colour in the bobbin. You don’t have to use a special topstitch thread, which gives a more defined line of stitching like you get on jeans. I used a quilting thread which worked well, but an upholstery thread could also be good.
If using a thread that is the same colour as the background for the topstitching, select one that is slightly darker in colour, you will find that your stitching looks so much better.
The pattern states to topstitch as you go, but if you are using a contrast thread, try to group several stages of topstitching together to avoid having to constantly change your needle thread colour. Better still, you could thread up another sewing machine (if you have one) with the contrast thread.
Extend your stitch length to 2.6 – 2.8mm and sew approx 5mm from the seamline. Sew one or two lines of stitching if you prefer. I like to pop my machine settings on needle position to the far left (there is a setting for this on most machines) and line up the seamline to the centre line on the presser foot which really helps to keep straight and even. When topstitching the front pocket edge, move your needle position to the far left, align the side of the foot to the seamline and sew 5mm approx from the pocket seamline.
Why not try inserting a ‘Stitch in the ditch’ foot attachment (or otherwise known as a. ‘Edge stitch foot’ ) if you have one to help as a guide for topstitching. It looks like this…… 
AN EDGE STITCH FOOT
There is information about the cutting guide and layplans in the pattern which you can purchase here:
I love making Edith in floppy linen mix fabrics or denim. Here is a link to the Etsy shop where you will find an 8oz denim in dark or medium and an extensive color range of linen fabrics, perfect for making Edith Tunic.
This is what you do….
First sew your upper back pieces together. Finish off the seams. Press.
Then repeat with the upper front pieces and the lower back pieces.
Finish the outer 3 sides of the pockets.
Pin the pockets to the upper front and lower front in position as shown on the template.
Press downwards on the upper front and upwards on the lower front. Topstitch along the top edge of the 4 pockets in non contrast thread.
Pin the upper front to the lower front with the RST (right sides together). Sew across all around the pockets. Press.
Join the front to back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch.
Staystitch around the neck edge all around. This is a line of stitching within the seam allowance all around to prevent stretching.
NECK FACINGS
Interface the reverse side of the neck facing pieces. Join together at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge all around.
Pin to the neck edge. Hand tack stitch all around .
Snip! Clip the curved seam allowances to allow it to sit flat when its turned to the right side. Don’t forget to trim across the corners too.
Press to the reverse side. Align the seam line to the fold all around.
MAKE THE ROULEAU
Fold the loop piece in half lengthways, press. Stitch down one long side at the raw edges leaving a long thread end. Use a loop turner to turn it inside out or if you don’t have one, use a blunt ended needle tied with the thread end, pass through the tube, pulling gently through and out the other end. Press. Et voila!
Insert the loop between the neck facing and upper back. Pin, adjust the length according to your button. Sew down the short edge. Trim off any excess loop ends.
Turn to the RS. Oop la! one rouleau loop! Snazzy!
Hand tack stitch the facing all around to secure it.
Machine stitch 4cm from the neck edge all around.
Pin the sleeve to the body. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press away from the body. Topstitch. Easy peasy!
Pin then sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST.
Clip the curved seam allowances at the underarm section.
Hem the sleeve edge with a contrast thread. Hem the lower edge with the background colour thread. 
Of course finish off with a lovely button.
Ta dah!
All images and text are copyrighted by Fiona Hesford. Please ask prior permission if you would like to use any of the content.
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