Orla trapeze dress has become such a classic style, I decided it just had to join the Sewgirl collection.
So let me describe this dress, so as well as being insanely stylish, it is also a very easy relaxed dress to wear. Its trapeze shape allows you lots of movement, so you can eat what you like without feeling constricted. With two side pockets (who doesnt love a sidey) and a choice of two dress lengths and two sleeve lengths, the Option A has a buttoned placket detail at the neckline, edged with bias binding to give it a retro feel or Option B has an alternative simple neck facing.
Both options have a back neck opening. Option A has a hand chain stitch loop, and Option B version you can use the rouleau loop method.
This is an easy pattern to make up, however, the placket detail is probably a little more tricky, so if you have had some experience attaching bias binding you should be ok.
I would say this dress really suits bold prints but it also looks great in plain linens or viscose/linen mixes or the blue and white one (with red trim below) is a voile that I bought from slubbedprints.co.uk who have a wonderful collection of hand block print cotton fabrics from India. You can really play around with matching up one of the colours in your print or using a complete contrast colour binding as I have done here.
Some other versions of Orla that Ive made in bold prints.
Here are details about fabric requirements, size info and finished garment details.
So you will also need some equipment like a loop turner or a large eye blunt ended needle, tacking thread and needle, an iron, a good pair of dressmaking scissors and a stitch ripper for any back tracking you may need to make!
HOW TO MAKE ORLA
Here are some pictures and text to give you an idea about how this dress is made before you buy.
CUTTING TIP FOR FABRICS 112cm WIDE SIZES 20 & 22
Just one tip before you start cutting out your fabric pieces on a narrower width fabric, if you are cutting out sizes 20+ you may not have the width at the lower edge, my advise would be to add a square of fabric extension on the lower selvedge edge to compensate.
The Front and Back are joined at the shoulder seams and topstitched.
The pattern gives you lots more details about how to do the binding.
So with Option B you don’t insert a placket or use bias binding around the neckline like you do with Version A. I thought that some people would like to try it without the binding, so here are a few illustrations to give you an idea about how its done.
8 thoughts on “ORLA TRAPEZE DRESS”
Please, with the ORLA Dress patter, is it Best to go for my Bust size as my waist /Hips are up to two sizes bigger. There is a lot of loose give in the design. Thankyou.
Definitely go for your bust size, as you say waist hips are less relevant as it’s a trapeze shape. Needs to be a good size across the shoulders too.
Hope that helps all the best
Hi Fiona just started cutting out Orla dress option A, but a bit confused over the back opening. Is it just a hook and eye? I’d rather like the loop and button but unclear how to do that with the binding.
so you can either have a hook and eye, or (as I prefer), a thread chain loop with button. To do this you will need either some thicker embroidery thread or a few ends of sewing thread together. Sew several large loops, big enough for your button. Then go back on these multiple threads with a buttonhole loop stitch. This youtube video is a good tutorial that may help.
Hope that helps.
Ive Just finished yet another Orla for myself in denim with red binding and buttons and I LOVE it!
Ill try and get a bit more on the blog about thread chain loop fastening but remember that you can also do with a zip fastening at the back neck, that also works well.
All the best
Thanks for your help I’ve finished my first Orla! Going to make another in linen I think
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Hi Fiona I want to make another Orla (Version B this time) in linen but I’d like to lower the front neckline slightly, is this an easy fix?
For version A (with the binding),according to the pattern you would have trimmed off 1.5cm around the neckline before attaching the binding. With version B you don’t do this but sew the facing on with a 1.5cm seam allowance. However if you want a wider/lower neckline you could sew a 2cm seam allowance or more. If you want to keep the width of the facing the same as before, you will need to add on to the facing outer edge.
Hope that helps. Fiona
Thank you, Fiona