INCREASING A BUST DART SIZE

Patterns such as Cecily Dress by Sewgirl, are usually made for a bust size B, so if you need to increase the size, you will need to make an adjustment known as a full bust adjustment (FBA). You will need to add on the following according to your bust cup size:

Size Guide:

AA cup= reduce by 1cm. A cup= reduce by 6mm. B cup= NO CHANGE.  

C cup= add  1cm. D cup = add 1.9cm. DD cup= add 3.2cm.

1. Draw three lines as shown by the red in the picture A, B and C (below)

Line A extends from the Apex point* vertically to the lower edge.

Line B extends from the Apex point to a point a third of the way up on the lower armhole.

Line C extends from the Apex point to the side seam through the middle of the leg of the dart.

2. Cut the lines as follows:

Line A cut from the apex to the lower edge.

Line B cut from the apex to the armhole edge but stop a few millimetres before the edge.

Line C cut from the side seam to the apex but stop a few millimetres before the apex.

3. Spread the pieces apart adding on extra, according to your cup size shown above in the size guide.

Cut a line across perpendicular to the line A, move so the pattern is aligned at the lower edge. Place a piece of paper behind each open section and tape in position.

This is now an increased bust dart.

REDUCING A BUST DART SIZE

For cup sizes AA and A, you will need to reduce the size of the dart according to the measurements in the Size guide above. Instead of open the sections A, B and C you will need to close them, overlapping the pattern as shown below.

Long version front view in wool mix jacquard.

Long version back view.

Short jacket version in boiled wool

You can buy a pattern via my website, click on the link below

BUY PATTERN 

A stylish unlined duster coat/coatigan, round neck in two lengths; long or jacket length, with rounded pocket details, three or four covered buttons with large snap fasteners and the three quarter length sleeves gives an air of a bygone era.

Make in woollens such as wool mix jacquards and checks or plain boiled wool in vibrant colours for Autumn/Winter or Linen and Linen mix fabrics for Spring/Summer. Its a versatile pattern for all seasons! Here is a link to some wonderful British wool fabrics at reasonable prices.

SHOP WOOLLEN FABRICS 

       

SHOP LINEN FABRICS 

Why not team up with jeggings, jeans, long skirts and a polo neck top for a sixties look.

8 Templates: FRONT, BACK, SLEEVE, FRONT FACING, BACK FACING, POCKET, POCKET LINING and BACK BELT

Here is the measurements guide:

Sew 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Topstitching –sew 4mm approx. from seam with a straight stitch length at 2.8mm. Stay stitching- a line of straight stitch to prevent stretching

WORKING WITH BOILED WOOL TIP: pop a walking foot on your machine and use a ballpoint needle no.90 which helps give a better sewing experience

HOW TO MAKE URSULA COATIGAN

SEWING THE BACK BELTThe Back belt is optional but I think its nice feature to the rear angle! Stitch down each side, then turn inside out. Press.Top stitch down each side.Pin the back belt to the back piece at each side. Machine tack within the seam allowance.

SEWING THE NECK FACING

Sew the (interfaced) facing pieces RST. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge.

SEWING THE POCKETS

Finish the outer edge of the pockets and pocket lining pieces. Pin the pocket piece at each side matching the curved edge. Sew. Clip the seam allowances.

Turn to the WS and topstitch 1cm away from the edge..Pin the pocket lining piece to the pocket at the outer edge. Sew.Tack stitch at the sections above the pocket curve to secure.

SEWING THE FRONT TO BACKPin, then sew the front to back at the shoulder edges. Finish the raw edges together. Press towards the back. Top stitch on the right side. Staystitch around the neck edge.

Sew the front to back at the side edges. Finish the raw edge. Hem the lower edge of the front and back piece.Pin the facing to the Front at the top side edge. Sew. Press the seam allowances open.

Pin the neck facing to the neck edge, match up the cross seams. Hand tack stitch all around the neck edge. Sew.Nick the seam allowance all around.Fold over to the reverse side. Hand tack stitch around the neck facing. Fold over 1cm at the centre front edge. Press. Hand tack stitch down the front to secure.

Stitch around the neck facing and down each long centre front band.

SLEEVESPin the sleeves RST at the long side edges. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Turn under the cuff hem, press, pin. Stitch.

Pin the sleeve to the body, align the back of the sleeve head (see template) to the back. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Topstitch on the RS.Pin, hand tack the pocket to the body. On the reverse side, stitch around the pocket with a longer stitch length. This will define the pocket on the RS. Like this……

 

 

Cover the buttons then stitch on some large snap fasteners in the position as shown on the template.

There you have it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lottie Duster, a coat or dress depending on what fabric you use. Pop it on as an extra layer in Autumn or Spring, its a useful addition to your wardrobe. Easy to make, suitable for adventurous beginners. If you are fazed by the buttonholes just leave them out, personally, I wear Lottie open most of the time anyway.

Make Lottie duster coat in lovely linen, delightful denim or for a dress version a medium weight viscose fabric. Here is a link to a great linen supplier, the one above is made in a Linen Union 55% linen, 45% cotton in colour Windsor Blue, but there are lots of other beautiful colours in the range.

 SHOP LINEN FABRIC

Lottie Duster has a four button closure, raglan sleeves, revere collar, optional tie belt and flap detail pockets…….Its a classic!

Lottie is available as a hard copy pattern and also as a digital download here…BUY LOTTIE PATTERN 

Here are some essential size and fabric requirements information…..

You can watch my demonstration on The Sewing Quarter (Wednesday 18th Sept 2019) at 9am and 11am.

SEWING  QUARTER  SHOW

Getting started

Working with linen is a joy but it does crease rather, so I usually have my bottle of spray starch at the ready.

Firstly iron your fabric, I like to pop a blanket on my work surface and iron my fabric in situ, I find it a lot easier. I use paper weights to keep the larger pieces stable and pin just the smaller pieces. Once you have cut out the all pieces you just need to interface the back neck facing. I don’t interface any other piece because I think the facing needs to be kept soft and fluid.

Here are pictures of the step by step stages of making Lottie coat with edited text from the pattern with a few extra tips, so you can see if its something you might like to make before you buy.

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM

If you are the smaller end of your size i.e. a size 8/12/16/20 then you could sew a 1.5cm seam allowance to compensate.

Use an overlocker to finish the raw edges or sew a zig zag stitch or pink with pinking shears.

THIS IS WHAT YOU DO……….

COLLARThe collar is made by sewing the outer curved edge without the notches then after nicking and trimming the seam allowance its turned inside out, pressed then top stitched. Then tack stitch along the raw edge to hold together. Place to one side.

FACINGSAfter interfacing the back facing, pin to the front facing at the shoulders. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Turn under the outer edge 1cm and press. Then stitch. Turn under the lower edge of the facing 1cm and stitch.

JOINING THE SLEEVES Sew the front sleeve to the front at the slanted edge. Join to the back sleeve. Join the back sleeve to the back. Finish the raw edges. Press. Repeat for the other side.

Join the front to back at the side seams, leave the lower section open for the side slits. Finish the raw edges above the slit section. Press.

SIDE SLITSNick the seam allowance just above the slit section to open the seam at the lower section.  Fold over the side slits at the raw edge 1cm then again 2cm. Press. Sew.

Press under the hem at the lower front edge 1cm then again 2cm. Sew.

COLLAR & FACINGSStarting at the centre of the back neck, pin the collar at the centre point to the neck edge matching up the notches to the sleeve seams.Starting at the back neck, pin the facing piece at the centre of the back facing with the RS together to the collar.

Pin the facing all the way down the front edge at each side.With the lower edge of the facing turned under and stitched 1cm, align at the lower edge.Hand Tack!You might like to mark the curved stitch line with an invisible pen to help you as it is important that both sides are the same.

Stitch!

Nick the curved seam allowances. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.Pin to the reverse side and press so that the seam line is aligned with the fold. Push out the collar with a poking tool to get the curves.

Pin the facing all around.

Top stitch all around 1cm from the edge.

Make a hem at the sleeve raw edge. Fold over 1cm then again 3cm. Press. Pin. Stitch.

POCKETS Pin the pockets RS together. Stitch all around leaving a small opening at one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Nick the curved corners.Turn inside out, push out the corners with a poking tool. Press well, aligning the seam line to the fold. Top stitch all around. Press over the flap section as shown on the template. Pin to the coat in position as shown on the pattern. Tack stitch to hold. Sew all around a second line of stitching close to the outer edge and parallel to the top stitching. Reinforce the corners at the top just below the flap fold. Sew on a button at each pocket or leave without.

TIE BELT (optional)Pin the tie belt pieces RS together. Sew all around, leave a small opening at the centre for turning. Trim the seam allowance and nick the curved corners. Turn the tie inside out and push out the curved ends with a poking tool. Press well so that the seam line is in line with the fold all around.

Topstitch all around the outer edge.

BELT LOOP

Fold the loop piece in half then fold in 1cm each long side. Press. Fold again in half. Press.

Top stitch down each long side. Cut into two equal pieces. Press over 1cm at each end. Attach to the coat at each side in position as shown on the template with a box stitch.Sew your buttonholes. Use the template as a guide to the position.One last thing, you may like to insert small pieces of wondaweb under the facing to secure the facing in place. You could also stitch a few stitches at the shoulder seam to secure the neck facing.

One last thing….why not make a gorgeous neck tie scarf like the one below, with just a half metre of hand woven indian cotton fabric from slubbedprints.co.uk

Voila!

For more Sewgirl news follow me on instagram or sign up to my newsletter via my website. All the very best to you X Fiona

 

 

 

Edith – An artists smock style loose fitting tunic for everyday wear. Straightforward to make with easy sew long sleeves, a deep round neck, lots of cross seams and topstitching (oh yes I do love topstitching!) and two inset pockets. Edith has an open loop and button back neck detail so its easy to get on and off. Theres lots of room in this tunic to move, eat and do what you will!

The finished length is on the knee or just above. See below for the finished garment measurements.

Please note that the horizontal pocket seam is designed to sit approx 5cm (2″) below the waistline. You can sew a single or double line of topstitching as you prefer.Heres a close up of those nifty inset pockets which are hidden within the seam line. Before you start, its a good idea to measure where the pocket seam line will be on you. If you need to make any adjustments to the length of the upper and lower body sections, you can do this before you cut out. by tracing off the pattern and making alterations. Just extend or shorten the lower edge of the upper front and back by sliding the pattern down or up, then match up at the sides. Repeat for the lower section.

The Back neck opening with a rouleau loop, shown below, is such a good technique to get under your sewing belt.

Or you could also make a sleeveless smock top version like this one:

I made it 12cm shorter on the lower front and back section only. I didn’t attach the sleeves, just turned under a small 1cm hem and stitched a double row of topstitching.

To shorten the pattern just mark out the length up from the lower edge, then slide the pattern down and redraw the lower curved edge.

I also tried topstitched above the pocket seam which is an alternative method which also looks good.

Please note: For a shorter Smock Top version you will need 50cm less fabric than the pattern states for your size. 

A Note about Topstitching. If  you prefer to have contrast colour top stitching, use a different coloured thread in the needle and the background colour in the bobbin. You don’t have to use a special topstitch thread, which gives a more defined line of stitching like you get on jeans. I used a quilting thread which worked well, but an upholstery thread could also be good. 

If using a thread that is the same colour as the background for the topstitching, select one that is slightly darker in colour, you will find that your stitching looks so much better.

The pattern states to topstitch as you go, but if you are using a contrast thread, try to group several stages of topstitching together to avoid having to constantly change your needle thread colour. Better still, you could thread up another sewing machine (if you have one) with the contrast thread.

Extend your stitch length to 2.6 – 2.8mm and sew approx 5mm from the seamline. Sew one or two lines of stitching if you prefer. I like to pop my machine settings on needle position to the far left (there is a setting for this on most machines) and line up the seamline to the centre line on the presser foot which really helps to keep straight and even. When topstitching the front pocket edge, move your needle position to the far left, align the side of the foot to the seamline and sew 5mm approx from the pocket seamline.

Why not try inserting a ‘Stitch in the ditch’ foot attachment (or otherwise known as a. ‘Edge stitch foot’ ) if you have one to help as a guide for topstitching. It looks like this……

AN EDGE STITCH FOOT

There is information about the cutting guide and layplans in the pattern which you can purchase here:

BUY EDITH PATTERN

I love making Edith in floppy linen mix fabrics or denim. Here is a link to a fab supplier of linen and in particular the linen/cotton mix fabric in masses of great colours and not expensive.

FABRIC INSPIRATIONS.CO.UK 

This is what you do….

First sew your upper back pieces together. Finish off the seams. Press.Then repeat with the upper front pieces and the lower back pieces.Finish the outer 3 sides of the pockets.Pin the pockets to the upper front and lower front in position as shown on the template.Press downwards on the upper front and upwards on the lower front. Topstitch along the top edge of the 4 pockets in non contrast thread.Pin the upper front to the lower front with the RST (right sides together). Sew across all around the pockets. Press.Join the front to back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch.

Staystitch around the neck edge all around. This is a line of stitching within the seam allowance all around to prevent stretching.

NECK FACINGS

Interface the reverse side of the neck facing pieces. Join together at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge all around.Pin to the neck edge. Hand tack stitch all around .Snip!  Clip the curved seam allowances to allow it to sit flat when its turned to the right side. Don’t forget to trim across the corners too.Press to the reverse side. Align the seam line to the fold all around.

MAKE THE ROULEAUFold the loop piece in half lengthways, press. Stitch down one long side at the raw edges leaving a long thread end. Use a loop turner to turn it inside out or if you don’t have one, use a blunt ended needle tied with the thread end, pass through the tube, pulling gently through and out the other end. Press. Et voila!Insert the loop between the neck facing and upper back. Pin, adjust the length according to your button. Sew down the short edge. Trim off any excess loop ends.Turn to the RS. Oop la! one rouleau loop! Snazzy!Hand tack stitch the facing all around to secure it.Machine stitch 4cm from the neck edge all around.Pin the sleeve to the body. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press away from the body. Topstitch. Easy peasy!Pin then sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST.Clip the curved seam allowances at the underarm section.

Hem the sleeve edge with a contrast thread. Hem the lower edge with the background colour thread. 

Of course finish off with a lovely button.

Ta dah!

Invisible zips are nice to look at, they give a professional finish to your garment and with a bit of practise are actually not difficult to insert when you know how.

This is what a concealed zip looks like…..

FRONT

BACK

You will need to insert on your machine a concealed zip foot or just a standard zip foot will do (actually I prefer it!)

A  concealed zip foot looks like the first image but make sure its one thats compatible with your machine. The second one is a standard zip foot.

 

This is what it looks like when its been inserted.You can see that also the cross seams are matched up perfectly, which is what you are aiming for when making any garment.Before you start, take a look at the back of your invisible zipper. See how the coils of the zipper curl toward the back? This is what makes the zipper less visible than a normal zipper. You will need to uncurl those coils by gently ironing the zipper flat first with the tip of a warm iron. This lets you stitch much closer to the coils.

Lay your zipper wrong side up, with the zipper open. Set your iron on warm (or the synthetic setting). Use your fingers to uncurl the teeth of the zipper while pressing it flat with the tip of your iron. Do this on both sides.

Lay your garment right side up, facing you. Place one side of the open zipper face down on the fabric and lined up one zip outside edge with one side of the fabric raw edge. NB there is a 1cm seam allowance with Cecily dress, however, if you have a 1.5cm seam allowance, then place with a 5mm space between the zip and the outside edge. Pin in position, with Cecily dress start just below the dart. If you have a cross seam (at the waistline for example) then mark the back of your zip each side so that you ensure your cross seams match up after sewing in your zipper. Hand tack.

Now instead of hand tacking, you could use quilters 1/4″ tape to temporarily adhere the zip to the fabric side edge before you sew it in.Stick a piece either side of the back of the zip.

Having inserted the invisible zipper foot into your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. If you don’t have an invisible zip foot, use a standard zip foot and nudge the needle over so it lines up with the coil underneath or as near to the teeth as possible.

Make sure your cross seams are aligned.Sew slowly as far as you can and (if you are using a standard foot, as close to the teeth as you can without sewing over the teeth). Stop when you reach the end of the zipper. Backstitch. Repeat for the other side of the zip.

Close the zipper up. Pin together the fabric below the zip and sew a 1cm seam sewing from the previous line of stitching to the end of the fabric. Do the same at the section above the zip.

Press the seams open on the back and press the zip on the right and wrong sides so that the coils spring back into action.

There you have now mastered the art of the concealed zip!

BUY ELSIE PATTERN

Baggy trousers are surprisingly flattering and I’m a total convert. I don’t wear tight jeans…..ever! I really don’t like them. Don’t get me wrong, I like a pair of jeggings under a tunic but jeans yuk…. I find them way too uncomfortable. These beauties, however, with their elasticated back waist section,  are my go to trews for lounging about it or when I want to feel like a Hoxton Hipster !  : ) They also look great with sandals or flatties. Wear with short or long tees.  You don’t have to tuck in your tee either, cover any lumps and bumps (we all have them!) with a tee or a tie belt (I love a tie belt).

Remember Elsie can be made in linen, heres a link to a fab linen supplier at reasonable prices…..

Fabric inspirations linen

These trousers can also be made in a floppy viscose or polyester fabric for a ‘Palazzo Pants’ style which are perfect for holidays. Imagine lounging around the pool on a hot evening, sipping cocktails in your palazzos …… (well a girl can dream cant she!).

Elsie has front pleats on to the waistband and an elasticated back waistband (yippee!) so no zips just pull em on! There are also two rather lovely inset side pockets and an optional tie belt…..did I mention that already?

Heres a picture of Matilda wearing a longer version of Elsie made in a polyester print.

Actually Ive also made them from African Dutch Wax and I think they look oh so cool, perfect for holidays.

The pattern comes in two lengths – cropped or full length so if you can check the size chart for more details about the finished measurements and fabric quantities.

My cropped Elsie trousers (pattern cover picture) measured 22cm from the bottom of the hem to the ground, you may like to use this measurement as a guide as to how long your cropped trousers should be on you. Some of us have longer legs than others, so you can adapt the length to suit your body if needed.

Here is a chart showing the measurements:

You will need to allow at least 10-15cm at the waist/hips (whichever is the largest measurement) for ‘ease’ this allows you to pull them on and off without struggle. Here are the finished waist/hip measurements:What are the fabrics suitable to make Elsie trousers in:  linen, linen mixes or 6 oz denim (make sure its really nice and soft and has some drape to it).  Then viscose, polyester drapey fabrics. Try to avoid anything too lightweight and nothing see through (no VPL s please!).

For Cutting instructions and Layplans see the paper pattern. You also need a half metre of 4cm elastic (soft variety) and 20cm of fusible light/med weight interfacing.

Here is an edited down version of the pattern instructions to give you an idea about whats involved.

Seam allowance is 1cm.

SEWING THE FRONT & BACK

Sew the fronts together RST at the centre front edge.  Do the same with the back pieces at the centre back edges. Finish the seam allowances together.

PLEATS

Pin the pleats as shown on the template on the front only. 

Two on the left hand side of the centre seam.Two on the right hand side of the centre seam.So it looks like this. Machine tack stitch the pleats to hold in position along the top edge so you can remove the pins and the pleats are held in position.

POCKETS

Pin a pocket lining to the outer curved edge with the RST. (right sides together). Sew along curved edge. Fold over and press to the reverse side. Pin then top stitch close to the curved edge.

Repeat for the other side and other pocket lining piece.

Add the pocket piece to the outer curved edge of the pocket lining with the RST.

Finish the raw edges and pin then machine tack to the trouser top and side edges. Machine tack. Repeat for the other pocket.

Sew the front to the back at the side edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges.

Sew the trousers together at the inner leg edges again with the RST. Finish the raw edges.

Now to the……drum roll please!

WAISTBAND 

First make your tabs for the belt, or omit this if you are not having a belt.

Fold over the tab long sides 1cm to the wrong side. Press. Fold again in half. Pin, topstitch close to each long side.

Press over 1cm at one short side. Place to one side. Repeat for the other three tab pieces.

SEWING THE WAISTBAND  -Method 1

If you have an over locker you could insert the waistband this quick way…for an alternative way see the following section -Method 2.

Interface the front waistband only. Pin and sew RST at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Fold in half so the WST (wrong sides are together), match the raw edges.Pin the elastic at the side seams and extend across at the Back section.Machine tack close to the raw edges, making sure you don’t sew in any elastic. Finish the raw edge, also on the trousers front and back top edge.

Pin the waistband piece to the trousers top edge, align front and back, match up the side seams. Insert the tab piece short end under the waistband before you stitch, align with the outer pleats and insert two tabs in the same way under the back waistband. Hand tack stitch. Sew all around pushing the elastic beyond the (dropped down) needle as you go, careful not to sew the elastic so push it away from the seam edge or pin it in position.

Press the waistband upwards, seam allowance downwards on the reverse side.

Pin the folded tab end at the top secure with a small stitched rectangle end encasing the raw tab edge.

WAISTBAND – Method 2 (alternative method) where you encase the raw edges in the waistband.

So just like the previous method you sew the waistband together at the short sides with the RST.

Sew the elastic to the side seams, extend over the the back section.Fold over and press 1cm to the wrong side all around one long raw edge of the waistband.

Pin the waistband unfolded edge to the trousers top edge., match up the side seams and align the back and front. Sew all around. Insert the tabs as in Method 1.Fold the waistband up. Press at the seamline.

Fold over to the reverse side of the waistband encasing all the raw edges, keep passing the fabric along the elastic so you are always working with a flat piece of waistband.

Pin all around then either ‘stitch in the ditch’ or hand sew all around with a small slip stitch to secure the waistband edge. Press.

TIE BELT (optional)Join the tie pieces with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.

Fold the tie in half lengthways align the raw edges. Pin. Sew along one long edge and down each slanted edge leaving a 4cm approx opening at the centre join section. Leave a long end for turning. Trim the seam allowances to 5mm.

Tie the thread end on to a blunt ended chunky needle and pass in between the tie folds and out through the opening. Pull gently to turn inside out. Push out the pointed ends with a poking tool or tease out with a strong needle. Press so the fold is in line with the seam.

Top stitch all around which will close up the opening at the same time. Job done!

Insert through your little tabs and tie in a lovely bow. Esme would be proud. (this won’t make much sense if you don’t watch The Great British Sewing Bee!).

Lastly make a 2cm hem on the lower edge of your trousers.

Ta dah!

 

 

SUKI KIMONO CARDIGAN

SIZES 8-20

Suitable for beginners.

This is a loose fitting hip length kimono which looks great in all seasons, either for a special occasion or as a loose fitting cardigan. With a wide front band, two optional patch pockets, and french seams on the inside, its an easy, fun and quick to make.

I made this kimono in this beautiful Liberty pure silk satin, shown above,  other suitable fabrics include viscose fabric, cotton, linen or any fabric that has a fluid drape quality.

It can also be made in thicker fabrics for colder days as a kind of jacket, which gives a completely different look.

Suki was demonstrated on The Sewing Quarter TV channel on 23rd April 2019 so if you fancy watching me make it here is a You tube link. Just scroll up to 3:00 to watch the one hour show.

SEWING QUARTER TV DEMO SHOW 

Suki Kimono is sized from 8-20 (scroll down to see the finished measurements chart)

You can adjust the size and length.

SIZING UP A PATTERN

For a guide to how to size up the pattern, I have uploaded a link to a Youtube tutorial below to show you how to do this.  Please note that you may need extra fabric when sizing up and layout may have to be adjusted, so check first before buying your fabric that you have enough fabric to fit all your adjusted pieces.

TUTORIAL VIDEO ABOUT SIZING UP A PATTERN

EXTENDING THE LENGTH

You can make the kimono longer by using the larger sizes length lines and still be within 1.5m fabric. (Of course you can make as long as you like but you will need to buy extra fabric in this case.)  Make sure if you do lengthen to another size that you also cut the band pieces in the same size too, so for example, if you make a size 12 kimono but a size 20 in length, then cut out two size 20 band pieces….simple!

One other thing is that you can also lengthen a further 2cm by making a smaller hem on the lower edge, instead of 4cm as specified on the pattern. Important! remember to add on an extra 2cm to the band length to accommodate the extra length in the body in this case.

So the maximum length for 1.5m fabric, using the size 20 length line and a 2cm lower edge hem is 69cm approx. 

The pattern is available to buy on the website, click on the link below for details.

BUY SUKI PATTERN 

Scroll down for a photo step-by-step tutorial showing how to make up Suki Kimono.

Tips for sewing silk/satin/ viscose:

When sewing silk use a finer thread and insert a ballpoint needle in your machine.

Use sharp pins and pin in the seam allowance to avoid leaving holes in the fabric. 

Make sure scissors are also sharp and nick free. 

Try not to handle the material unnecessarily which can cause it to fray. 

Adjust your iron to a ‘silk’ setting and take care with steaming, it can cause water marks. 

Lay a sheet, old blanket or duvet underneath your fabric when cutting out to prevent it moving about.

How to sew a FRENCH SEAM *Sew seams using a french seam. This is a technique used to conceal seams which are visible by stitching twice, once with the wrong sides of the fabric facing, then again with the right sides of the fabric facing. Its an ideal technique for fabrics that are light and prone to fraying and garments where the inside seam  is exposed. To make a french seam, firstly pin, then sew a 5mm seam with the WRONG SIDES  together.  Next, fold your fabric pieces so the RIGHT SIDES are together and press and pin so that the seam is aligned to the fold. Stitch again, this time with a 1cm seam allowance, encasing the raw edges inside. Finally, press your french seam to one side.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: See the chart below for fabric requirements.

You will also need: a reel of thread, an iron, pins, a hand sewing needle, a poker (a chunky knitting needle is good or a chopstick).

Pattern pieces for FRONT (1), BACK (2), SLEEVE (3), FRONT BAND (4), POCKET (5)

Here we go!

CUTTING OUT THE PIECES –

Using the Layplans above as a guide, cut out the following pieces:

FRONT (1)– Cut two.

BACK (2) – Cut one on the fold.

FRONT BAND (4) –  Cut cut two pieces.

POCKET (5)– Cut two pieces.

SLEEVE (3)– Cut two pieces on the fold of the fabric.

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM

SEWING THE KIMONO

Pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams with the right sides together. Sew. Finish the raw edges with a zig zag or overlock to prevent fraying. Press the seam allowances flat towards the back piece. Topstitch on the right side. Now pin your sleeve piece to the body at the armhole edge, sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Top stitch. Repeat for the other sleeve.

FRENCH SEAMS

Pin the front to back at the side edges with the WRONG sides together. Sew a 5mm seam.

Turn inside out so the RIGHT sides are together, press with the seam aligned with the fold.  Pin. Sew another 1cm seam encasing all the raw edges. Press.

 

HEMMING

On the lower edge all around, fold over and press to the wrong side 1cm then again 3cm. Pin. Sew

Make the same hem on the sleeve raw edge.

 

SEWING THE FRONT BAND

Join the front band pieces at one short side to make one long strip with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch either side of the seamline.

Fold over and press 1cm all along one long side of band.

Starting at the centre of the back neck and with the right sides facing together, pin the unfolded long side of the band to the back neck and front at each side, pin all around to the front sides either side, aligning the raw edges as you go and make sure to leave 1cm of band fabric extending beyond the body front lower edge on each side. 

Stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around from front left side to front right.

Press the band away from the body with the seam allowance pressed towards the band on the reverse side. Top stitch on the band right side.

At the far ends of the front band at each side, fold the strip ends in half widthways with the right sides together and the raw edges matching, opening out the 1cm fold a little at each end. Pin, then stitch across in line with the body front lower edge up to the fold line.

Trim the seam allowance to 5mm, cut across the corners of the seam allowance then turn inside out to right side, pushing out the corners gently with a poker.

 

Press the band over to the wrong side all around so that all raw edges are encased inside. Pin, then hand stitch the band at the folded edge all around with small slip stitches. Its a good idea to line up the fold of the band to the line of stitching previously made. Make sure your stitching is as neat as possible. If  you would like to have front ties** on your kimono scroll to the bottom of this page for instructions to make and insert before sewing the band.

Finally press your kimono.

POCKETS (optional)

Finish the raw edges of two longer sides and one short side of the pocket pieces.

On the unfinished side, fold over to the wrong side 1cm, press then again 2cm. Press. Stitch.

Fold over and press 1cm on the 3 un-hemmed sides to the wrong side.

Place in position on to the kimono. Pin. Top stitch all around, reinforcing the top corners.

**FRONT TIES (optional)

Cut two pieces 60cm x 4cm.

Fold over 1cm to the wrong side each long side and press. Fold the piece over again in half so you have a piece 60cm x 1cm. Tuck under one raw end. Tip: secure the folded short end with a small piece of quilting tape or wondaweb. Stitch close to the folded edge. Press.

Insert your ties raw edge under the band approx 1cm s cure with a few hand stitches before hand stitching your front band.

MATCHING QUILTED CLUTCH PURSE

What a nice quick project to make out of the leftover fabric and a perfect accessory to match your kimono. This easy to make quilted clutch purse makes a lovely addition to any outfit for a special event. With its optional loop handle, useful for carrying lipstick, powder compact, money and keys.

Finished size: 23cm x 16cm approx

You will need:

Outer fabric

One piece  41cm x 25cm (bag) and one piece 5cm x 30cm (handle).

Lining fabric

One piece 41cm x 25cm.

Wadding

One piece 41cm x 25cm in fusible H640 fleece Visilene wadding or wadding with fabric spray glue.

A magnetic clasp.

One gorgeous button

An invisible marker pen.

This is what you do…..

1. First spray glue your wadding to your outer bag piece or fuse with an iron if using the H640 Visilene.

2. Mark out lines at a 45 degree angle and 5cm or 2″ apart with a fabric invisible marker pen.

3. Stitch along the lines to make a criss cross quilting trellis pattern with a stitch length of 2.6.

4. Place your quilted piece on top of the lining piece with the right sides together. Pin together. Round off the two top  corners using a saucer or small plate to mark out the curves, then trim.

5. Sew all around the edge of the piece with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving an opening of approx 4cm at the lower un curved edge at the side for turning. Nick across the corners and curved seam allowance with small V’s.

6. Turn your piece inside out and push out the corners. Press.

7. Make your loop handle. Fold in each long side 1cm and press. Fold in half lengthways. Press. Top stitch down each long side.

8. Insert your magnetic clasp (masculine side) at the rounded flap side, positioned at the centre,  2.5cm (1″) down from the top edge of the lining.

9. Fold your bag piece straight side up 13cm, with the wrong sides facing. Pin at the sides. Insert the handle loop raw ends, sandwiching them in between the folds, so the loop section is extended beyond the bag. Top stitch down each side 4mm (1/4″) from the edge.

10. Insert your magnetic clasp (female side) at the straight side, positioned at the centre,  7cm (2 3/4″”) down from the top edge of the outer fabric to match.

11. Stitch on a button at the flap outer side in the same position as the magnetic clasp.

There you have it!