URSULA COATIGAN PATTERN HACK

If you are making an Ursula from Sewing Street boiled wool, you might like to hack it to make a collar on your coat or jacket.
The wool fabric from Sewing Street doesn’t fray and looks the same on both sides, so its great to add a back collar on to the back neck, instead of the facings.
You can still do the lovely pockets as instructed on the pattern. I left the sleeve cuff un-hemmed. And…. I didn’t finish ANY of the raw edges on the reverse side- I just left them to look after their well behaved selves! No fraying- no fuss!
I also left the lower edge raw!!! Radical!
So, instead of sewing on the front and back facing piece, I just added one rectangle of fabric, cut to the specifications shown below and stitched it to the wrong side of the back and front neck. The seam is apparent on the right side, however, as the collar is turned over, it covers it. I did trim the seam allowance down to 5mm though.
This diagram shows you what I did. Easy peasy!

So the one rectangle you need to cut depends on the size you are making as follows:

Size 8= 9cm x 49cm

Size 10= 9.5cm x 50cm

Size 12= 10cm x 51.5cm

Size 14= 10.5cm x 53cm

Size 16= 11cm x 54cm

Size 18= 11.5 x 55cm

Size 20= 12cm x 56.5cm

By the way, if you are getting pilling with your boiled wool, Ive read that it helps to spray the fabric with hairspray- I haven’t tried it myself but Im going to give it a go.

I love my Ursula Hack! Happy Sewing!

Brompton Military style hat

What a fab hat! I just love it! Make in tweed, cotton prints, denim, needlecord, its an Autumn/Winter wardrobe essential. Use some fleece interfacing or wadding/batting to add extra warmth on cold days, or add standard fusible interfacing for a Spring/Summer season version.

BUY PATTERN

This Sewgirl pattern is available either as a PDF download or as a paper pattern (link above to my Etsy shop). Brompton hat can be made in sizes small, medium or large. To measure your head diameter, extend a tape measure around your forehead and above your ears.

SMALL = 55cm MEDIUM = 57cm LARGE = 59cm

Suitable for sewists with some previous experience.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS (for 112cm & 140cm width)

50cm of outer fabric such as woollen tweeds, needlecord, denim or medium weight cotton.
30cm of medium or lightweight cotton or satin lining fabric.
30cm of fusible volume fleece (Vilene H640) interfacing or some wadding.

20cm of medium / heavyweight fusible interfacing. A reel of thread.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED Spray glue (optional), masking tape, tailor’s ham, pinking shears, pins / quilter’s clips, stitch ripper and a poking tool.
Insert a walking foot attachment on your machine if you have one, which will make it easier to sew.

A walking foot makes bulky layers so much easier to sew.

HOW TO MAKE THE BROMPTON HAT

Join the Side Front to the Side Back
Attach the Side panel to the Crown
Topstitching heaven!
Make a Crown in the lining fabric, in the same way as the outer fabric but leave an opening in the seam for turning the hat inside out at the end.
These are the Band and Band lining pieces joined together to make ‘rings’.
Three peaks! interfaced and reinforced with stitching
Adding the reinforced peak to the peak lining
Turn the peak inside out, pushing out the edges on the inside with a poking tool. Topstitch around the outer edge. Machine tack the inner curved raw edges together with a zig zag stitch.
With the seams at the centre back, clip (or pin) the peak to the lower edge of the outer band and machine tack to hold. You may find it helpful to nick the raw inner curved edge of the peak to ease it in.
With the seams matching at the back, clip (or pin) the other band lower edge to the peak aligning the centres. Tack.
Stitch all around. Flip the bands up. Press. Machine tack the raw edges together. Try it on at this stage. If you feel it needs some elastic you could add a ring of 3/4″ elastic into the band before tacking together. Adjust to fit.
Heres the outer crown you made earlier. With the RST, matching the centre back and the centre front, pin the band raw edge to the crown raw edge with the right sides together. Sew.
Pin the lining to the other side of the band edge. Hand tack. Sew. Turn the hat inside out through the opening in the lining. Push the lining inside the hat. Give it a good press using your trusty tailors ham.
Ta dah!

ETSY SHOP LINK