MILDRED PINAFORE DRESS

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So finally she’s here…. Mildred!

  BUY PATTERN 

As you can see from the pictures above, Mildred is A-line shape, in a choice of short or long lengths.  She’s got two adjustable shoulder straps attached with buttons, one large front pocket, two cheeky back pockets and bags of practical style. Whats not to love.

I wear this pinafore a lot. I’ve made it in 8 oz soft denim (see above), needlecord (see below), linen and a linen mix. Here is a link to a company that sells wonderful denims that I would heartily recommend.

The Denim Company 

And if you would like to use linen theres always these guys…..

Fabric Inspirations 

To say this dress is quick to make is an understatement. An afternoon’s sewing and you are done. I couldn’t wait to try it on and was very reluctant to take it off! Its very roomy because I wanted to be able to wear a jumper underneath in Winter and a tee in Summer. I really love the big front pocket, a great place for plonking glasses which is useful for someone who spends half her life looking for them…. groan! Sometimes I sew a vertical line down the centre of the front pocket to divide it up, or split the pocket pattern and make two front pockets instead of one.  The back pockets are just the right size too. Its perfect for sewers to keep their equipment whilst on the job!

By the way, lets talk about topstitching. I didnt topstitch my Mildred (pictured), I was worried about wobbly lines but you could easily do so with either some contrast colour  thread and lengthen the stitch, or use a top stitch thread for a more defined line. Or why not do a double line of stitching around the pockets.

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I always find using my walking foot a fantastic help when topstitching because it helps glide over those bulky seams that can sometimes obstruct the flow of the stitching.

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A walking foot

 

What else is there to say about this beauty? Well you may wonder why it’s called Mildred? Well, when I was courting my husband (or was it the other way around? hmm) we enjoyed hanging out at a place called Mildred’s cafe in London’s Soho, I think it was one of the first Vegan cafes in London, anyway its a fab place and still going strong.mildreds-soho_place-800x571

Why not make Mildred in a shorter length in printed needlecord like this one. It looks great with knee high boots and woolly tights in Winter.MILDRED 1

Here is all the info you need to know about Mildred.

MILDRED BACK ETSY

Here are a few step by step photos to give you an idea about….

HOW TO MAKE MILDRED

Firstly the straps are sewn down each long side and one short side with the right sides together (RST), trim the seam allowances to 5mm. Nick across the corners at the straight ends.IMG_5634 Then, turn them inside out.

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These loop turners are quite good tools for doing this. If you haven’t got one, get one! They are invaluable.

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Press them, then top stitch like so…IMG_5643

Join the back pieces RST, Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch. By the way, its a good idea to finish your raw vertical edges beforehand either with an overlocker, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.

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Now there are no pics here about the pockets, but I would advise attaching them at this stage. In the pattern it leaves this bit to the end, which allows you to re-position them to suit you if you want to, but if you are happy with the position as shown on the template, its a lot easier to sew them on before you sew the front and back together. Just saying!

Next pin, tack stitch the straps at the slanted edge at the back.

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Join the interfaced facing pieces at the sides with the RST. Press. Finish the raw outer edge.IMG_5647

Join the front to the back at the side edges.

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Insert the facing. pin, matching up the cross seams. Hand tack.IMG_5650

Sew! Nick the seam allowances, trim across the corners. IMG_5651

Turn it to the RS, push out the edges. Press. Topstitch along the upper edge. Attach some buttons and (optional) buttonholes.IMG_5653 a

Ta dah! Easy peasy pattern dont you think?

Front LRES

This is the back view. Some great pockets with a little bit slanted on the corners.Back LRES

If you would like to make your own Mildred Pinafore Dress from a pattern, here is a link to my ETSY SHOP  

Happy sewing!

FULL BUST DART ADJUSTMENT

INCREASING A BUST DART SIZE

Patterns such as Cecily Dress by Sewgirl, are usually made for a bust size B, so if you need to increase the size, you will need to make an adjustment known as a full bust adjustment (FBA). You will need to add on the following according to your bust cup size:

Size Guide:

AA cup= reduce by 1cm. A cup= reduce by 6mm. B cup= NO CHANGE.  

C cup= add  1cm. D cup = add 1.9cm. DD cup= add 3.2cm.

1. Draw three lines as shown by the red in the picture A, B and C (below)

Line A extends from the Apex point* vertically to the lower edge.

Line B extends from the Apex point to a point a third of the way up on the lower armhole.

Line C extends from the Apex point to the side seam through the middle of the leg of the dart.Dart 1

2. Cut the lines as follows:

Line A cut from the apex to the lower edge.

Line B cut from the apex to the armhole edge but stop a few millimetres before the edge.

Line C cut from the side seam to the apex but stop a few millimetres before the apex. dart 2

3. Spread the pieces apart adding on extra, according to your cup size shown above in the size guide.

dart 4Cut a line across perpendicular to the line A, move so the pattern is aligned at the lower edge. Place a piece of paper behind each open section and tape in position. dart 5

This is now an increased bust dart.

REDUCING A BUST DART SIZE

For cup sizes AA and A, you will need to reduce the size of the dart according to the measurements in the Size guide above. Instead of open the sections A, B and C you will need to close them, overlapping the pattern as shown below.

dart 2 1

URSULA COATIGAN

IMG_2415Long version front view in wool mix jacquard.

IMG_2419Long version back view.

IMG_2406Short jacket version in boiled wool

You can buy a pattern via my website, click on the link below

BUY PATTERN 

A stylish unlined duster coat/coatigan, round neck in two lengths; long or jacket length, with rounded pocket details, three or four covered buttons with large snap fasteners and the three quarter length sleeves gives an air of a bygone era.

Make in woollens such as wool mix jacquards and checks or plain boiled wool in vibrant colours for Autumn/Winter or Linen and Linen mix fabrics for Spring/Summer. Its a versatile pattern for all seasons! Here is a link to some wonderful British wool fabrics at reasonable prices.

SHOP WOOLLEN FABRICS 

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SHOP LINEN FABRICS 

Why not team up with jeggings, jeans, long skirts and a polo neck top for a sixties look.

8 Templates: FRONT, BACK, SLEEVE, FRONT FACING, BACK FACING, POCKET, POCKET LINING and BACK BELT

Here is the measurements guide:

URSULA COATIGAN BACK A6Sew 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Topstitching –sew 4mm approx. from seam with a straight stitch length at 2.8mm. Stay stitching- a line of straight stitch to prevent stretching

WORKING WITH BOILED WOOL TIP: pop a walking foot on your machine and use a ballpoint needle no.90 which helps give a better sewing experience

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HOW TO MAKE URSULA COATIGAN

SEWING THE BACK BELTIMG_2220The Back belt is optional but I think its nice feature to the rear angle! Stitch down each side, then turn inside out. Press.IMG_2221Top stitch down each side.IMG_2242Pin the back belt to the back piece at each side. Machine tack within the seam allowance.

SEWING THE NECK FACING

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Sew the (interfaced) facing pieces RST. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge.

SEWING THE POCKETS

IMG_2225Finish the outer edge of the pockets and pocket lining pieces. Pin the pocket piece at each side matching the curved edge. Sew. Clip the seam allowances.

IMG_2229Turn to the WS and topstitch 1cm away from the edge..IMG_2230Pin the pocket lining piece to the pocket at the outer edge. Sew.IMG_2234Tack stitch at the sections above the pocket curve to secure.

SEWING THE FRONT TO BACKIMG_2236Pin, then sew the front to back at the shoulder edges. Finish the raw edges together. Press towards the back. Top stitch on the right side. Staystitch around the neck edge.

Sew the front to back at the side edges. Finish the raw edge. Hem the lower edge of the front and back piece.IMG_2238Pin the facing to the Front at the top side edge. Sew. Press the seam allowances open.

IMG_2239Pin the neck facing to the neck edge, match up the cross seams. Hand tack stitch all around the neck edge. Sew.IMG_2241Nick the seam allowance all around.IMG_2244Fold over to the reverse side. Hand tack stitch around the neck facing. Fold over 1cm at the centre front edge. Press. Hand tack stitch down the front to secure.IMG_2245

Stitch around the neck facing and down each long centre front band.

SLEEVESIMG_2243Pin the sleeves RST at the long side edges. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Turn under the cuff hem, press, pin. Stitch.

IMG_2247Pin the sleeve to the body, align the back of the sleeve head (see template) to the back. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Topstitch on the RS.IMG_2246Pin, hand tack the pocket to the body. On the reverse side, stitch around the pocket with a longer stitch length. This will define the pocket on the RS. Like this……

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IMG_2251Cover the buttons then stitch on some large snap fasteners in the position as shown on the template.

There you have it!

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LOTTIE DUSTER COAT

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Lottie Duster Coat low resLottie Duster, a coat or dress depending on what fabric you use. Pop it on as an extra layer in Autumn or Spring, its a useful addition to your wardrobe. Easy to make, suitable for adventurous beginners. If you are fazed by the buttonholes just leave them out, personally, I wear Lottie open most of the time anyway.

Make Lottie duster coat in lovely linen, delightful denim or for a dress version a medium weight viscose fabric. Here is a link to a great linen supplier, the one above is made in a Linen Union 55% linen, 45% cotton in colour Windsor Blue, but there are lots of other beautiful colours in the range.

 SHOP LINEN FABRIC

Lottie Duster has a four button closure, raglan sleeves, revere collar, optional tie belt and flap detail pockets…….Its a classic!

Lottie is available as a hard copy pattern and also as a digital download here…IMG_2009BUY LOTTIE PATTERN 

Here are some essential size and fabric requirements information…..

LOTTIE BACK

You can watch my demonstration on The Sewing Quarter (Wednesday 18th Sept 2019) at 9am and 11am.

SEWING  QUARTER  SHOW

Getting started

Working with linen is a joy but it does crease rather, so I usually have my bottle of spray starch at the ready.

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Firstly iron your fabric, I like to pop a blanket on my work surface and iron my fabric in situ, I find it a lot easier. I use paper weights to keep the larger pieces stable and pin just the smaller pieces. Once you have cut out the all pieces you just need to interface the back neck facing. I don’t interface any other piece because I think the facing needs to be kept soft and fluid.

Here are pictures of the step by step stages of making Lottie coat with edited text from the pattern with a few extra tips, so you can see if its something you might like to make before you buy.

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM

If you are the smaller end of your size i.e. a size 8/12/16/20 then you could sew a 1.5cm seam allowance to compensate.

Use an overlocker to finish the raw edges or sew a zig zag stitch or pink with pinking shears.

THIS IS WHAT YOU DO……….

COLLARIMG_2062IMG_2069The collar is made by sewing the outer curved edge without the notches then after nicking and trimming the seam allowance its turned inside out, pressed then top stitched. Then tack stitch along the raw edge to hold together. Place to one side.

FACINGSIMG_2063IMG_2064After interfacing the back facing, pin to the front facing at the shoulders. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

IMG_2070Turn under the outer edge 1cm and press. Then stitch. Turn under the lower edge of the facing 1cm and stitch.

JOINING THE SLEEVES IMG_2067Sew the front sleeve to the front at the slanted edge. Join to the back sleeve. Join the back sleeve to the back. Finish the raw edges. Press. Repeat for the other side.

IMG_2073Join the front to back at the side seams, leave the lower section open for the side slits. Finish the raw edges above the slit section. Press.

SIDE SLITSIMG_2077IMG_2078Nick the seam allowance just above the slit section to open the seam at the lower section.  Fold over the side slits at the raw edge 1cm then again 2cm. Press. Sew.

IMG_2075Press under the hem at the lower front edge 1cm then again 2cm. Sew.

COLLAR & FACINGSIMG_2079Starting at the centre of the back neck, pin the collar at the centre point to the neck edge matching up the notches to the sleeve seams.IMG_2083Starting at the back neck, pin the facing piece at the centre of the back facing with the RS together to the collar.IMG_2084

Pin the facing all the way down the front edge at each side.IMG_2085With the lower edge of the facing turned under and stitched 1cm, align at the lower edge.IMG_2086IMG_2087Hand Tack!IMG_2092You might like to mark the curved stitch line with an invisible pen to help you as it is important that both sides are the same.

IMG_2089Stitch!

IMG_2094Nick the curved seam allowances. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.IMG_2096Pin to the reverse side and press so that the seam line is aligned with the fold. Push out the collar with a poking tool to get the curves.

IMG_2097Pin the facing all around.

IMG_2100Top stitch all around 1cm from the edge.

IMG_2099Make a hem at the sleeve raw edge. Fold over 1cm then again 3cm. Press. Pin. Stitch.

POCKETS IMG_2103Pin the pockets RS together. Stitch all around leaving a small opening at one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Nick the curved corners.IMG_2111Turn inside out, push out the corners with a poking tool. Press well, aligning the seam line to the fold. Top stitch all around. Press over the flap section as shown on the template. IMG_2114Pin to the coat in position as shown on the pattern. Tack stitch to hold. Sew all around a second line of stitching close to the outer edge and parallel to the top stitching. Reinforce the corners at the top just below the flap fold. Sew on a button at each pocket or leave without.

TIE BELT (optional)IMG_2104Pin the tie belt pieces RS together. Sew all around, leave a small opening at the centre for turning. Trim the seam allowance and nick the curved corners. IMG_2105Turn the tie inside out and push out the curved ends with a poking tool. Press well so that the seam line is in line with the fold all around.

IMG_2110Topstitch all around the outer edge.

BELT LOOPIMG_2112

Fold the loop piece in half then fold in 1cm each long side. Press. Fold again in half. Press.IMG_2113

Top stitch down each long side. Cut into two equal pieces. Press over 1cm at each end. IMG_2116Attach to the coat at each side in position as shown on the template with a box stitch.IMG_2118Sew your buttonholes. Use the template as a guide to the position.IMG_2120One last thing, you may like to insert small pieces of wondaweb under the facing to secure the facing in place. You could also stitch a few stitches at the shoulder seam to secure the neck facing.

One last thing….why not make a gorgeous neck tie scarf like the one below, with just a half metre of hand woven indian cotton fabric from slubbedprints.co.ukIMG_2645

Voila!

For more Sewgirl news follow me on instagram or sign up to my newsletter via my website. All the very best to you X Fiona

sewgirl

 

 

 

EDITH TUNIC

SQ tunic sampleEdith – An artists smock style loose fitting tunic for everyday wear. Straightforward to make with easy sew long sleeves, a deep round neck, lots of cross seams and topstitching (oh yes I do love topstitching!) and two inset pockets. Edith has an open loop and button back neck detail so its easy to get on and off. Theres lots of room in this tunic to move, eat and do what you will!

The finished length is on the knee or just above. See below for the finished garment measurements.

Please note that the horizontal pocket seam is designed to sit approx 5cm (2″) below the waistline. EDITH BACK NEW-1You can sew a single or double line of topstitching as you prefer.IMG_7976Heres a close up of those nifty inset pockets which are hidden within the seam line. Before you start, its a good idea to measure where the pocket seam line will be on you. If you need to make any adjustments to the length of the upper and lower body sections, you can do this before you cut out. by tracing off the pattern and making alterations. Just extend or shorten the lower edge of the upper front and back by sliding the pattern down or up, then match up at the sides. Repeat for the lower section.

The Back neck opening with a rouleau loop, shown below, is such a good technique to get under your sewing belt.IMG_7983

Or you could also make a sleeveless smock top version like this one:

Edith topI made it 12cm shorter on the lower front and back section only. I didn’t attach the sleeves, just turned under a small 1cm hem and stitched a double row of topstitching.

To shorten the pattern just mark out the length up from the lower edge, then slide the pattern down and redraw the lower curved edge.

I also tried topstitched above the pocket seam which is an alternative method which also looks good.

Please note: For a shorter Smock Top version you will need 50cm less fabric than the pattern states for your size. 

A Note about Topstitching. If  you prefer to have contrast colour top stitching, use a different coloured thread in the needle and the background colour in the bobbin. You don’t have to use a special topstitch thread, which gives a more defined line of stitching like you get on jeans. I used a quilting thread which worked well, but an upholstery thread could also be good. 

If using a thread that is the same colour as the background for the topstitching, select one that is slightly darker in colour, you will find that your stitching looks so much better.

The pattern states to topstitch as you go, but if you are using a contrast thread, try to group several stages of topstitching together to avoid having to constantly change your needle thread colour. Better still, you could thread up another sewing machine (if you have one) with the contrast thread.

Extend your stitch length to 2.6 – 2.8mm and sew approx 5mm from the seamline. Sew one or two lines of stitching if you prefer. I like to pop my machine settings on needle position to the far left (there is a setting for this on most machines) and line up the seamline to the centre line on the presser foot which really helps to keep straight and even. When topstitching the front pocket edge, move your needle position to the far left, align the side of the foot to the seamline and sew 5mm approx from the pocket seamline.

Why not try inserting a ‘Stitch in the ditch’ foot attachment (or otherwise known as a. ‘Edge stitch foot’ ) if you have one to help as a guide for topstitching. It looks like this…… download

AN EDGE STITCH FOOT

There is information about the cutting guide and layplans in the pattern which you can purchase here:

BUY EDITH PATTERN

I love making Edith in floppy linen mix fabrics or denim. Here is a link to a fab supplier of linen and in particular the linen/cotton mix fabric in masses of great colours and not expensive.

FABRIC INSPIRATIONS.CO.UK 

This is what you do….

First sew your upper back pieces together. Finish off the seams. Press.2Then repeat with the upper front pieces and the lower back pieces.3Finish the outer 3 sides of the pockets.4Pin the pockets to the upper front and lower front in position as shown on the template.5Press downwards on the upper front and upwards on the lower front. Topstitch along the top edge of the 4 pockets in non contrast thread.6Pin the upper front to the lower front with the RST (right sides together). Sew across all around the pockets. Press.78Join the front to back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch.

Staystitch around the neck edge all around. This is a line of stitching within the seam allowance all around to prevent stretching.9

NECK FACINGS

10Interface the reverse side of the neck facing pieces. Join together at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge all around.11Pin to the neck edge. Hand tack stitch all around .12Snip!  Clip the curved seam allowances to allow it to sit flat when its turned to the right side. Don’t forget to trim across the corners too.13Press to the reverse side. Align the seam line to the fold all around.

MAKE THE ROULEAU15aFold the loop piece in half lengthways, press. Stitch down one long side at the raw edges leaving a long thread end. Use a loop turner to turn it inside out or if you don’t have one, use a blunt ended needle tied with the thread end, pass through the tube, pulling gently through and out the other end. Press. Et voila!15cInsert the loop between the neck facing and upper back. Pin, adjust the length according to your button. Sew down the short edge. Trim off any excess loop ends.15dTurn to the RS. Oop la! one rouleau loop! Snazzy!14Hand tack stitch the facing all around to secure it.14aMachine stitch 4cm from the neck edge all around.15Pin the sleeve to the body. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press away from the body. Topstitch. Easy peasy!16Pin then sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST.17Clip the curved seam allowances at the underarm section.

18Hem the sleeve edge with a contrast thread. Hem the lower edge with the background colour thread. 19

Of course finish off with a lovely button.

Ta dah!Fiona in Edith tunic

INSERTING AN INVISIBLE ZIP

12Invisible zips are nice to look at, they give a professional finish to your garment and with a bit of practise are actually not difficult to insert when you know how.

This is what a concealed zip looks like…..

FRONTkingfisher-concealed-zip

1BACK

You will need to insert on your machine a concealed zip foot or just a standard zip foot will do (actually I prefer it!)

A  concealed zip foot looks like the first image but make sure its one thats compatible with your machine. The second one is a standard zip foot.

 

This is what it looks like when its been inserted.12You can see that also the cross seams are matched up perfectly, which is what you are aiming for when making any garment.2Before you start, take a look at the back of your invisible zipper. See how the coils of the zipper curl toward the back? This is what makes the zipper less visible than a normal zipper. You will need to uncurl those coils by gently ironing the zipper flat first with the tip of a warm iron. This lets you stitch much closer to the coils.

Lay your zipper wrong side up, with the zipper open. Set your iron on warm (or the synthetic setting). Use your fingers to uncurl the teeth of the zipper while pressing it flat with the tip of your iron. Do this on both sides.6

3Lay your garment right side up, facing you. Place one side of the open zipper face down on the fabric and lined up one zip outside edge with one side of the fabric raw edge. NB there is a 1cm seam allowance with Cecily dress, however, if you have a 1.5cm seam allowance, then place with a 5mm space between the zip and the outside edge. Pin in position, with Cecily dress start just below the dart. If you have a cross seam (at the waistline for example) then mark the back of your zip each side so that you ensure your cross seams match up after sewing in your zipper. Hand tack.4

Now instead of hand tacking, you could use quilters 1/4″ tape to temporarily adhere the zip to the fabric side edge before you sew it in.135Stick a piece either side of the back of the zip.

8Having inserted the invisible zipper foot into your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. If you don’t have an invisible zip foot, use a standard zip foot and nudge the needle over so it lines up with the coil underneath or as near to the teeth as possible.

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Make sure your cross seams are aligned.9Sew slowly as far as you can and (if you are using a standard foot, as close to the teeth as you can without sewing over the teeth). Stop when you reach the end of the zipper. Backstitch. Repeat for the other side of the zip.

Close the zipper up. Pin together the fabric below the zip and sew a 1cm seam sewing from the previous line of stitching to the end of the fabric. Do the same at the section above the zip.

10Press the seams open on the back and press the zip on the right and wrong sides so that the coils spring back into action.

11There you have now mastered the art of the concealed zip!

12

ELSIE TROUSERS

ELSIE PIC

BUY ELSIE PATTERN

Baggy trousers are surprisingly flattering and I’m a total convert. I don’t wear tight jeans…..ever! I really don’t like them. Don’t get me wrong, I like a pair of jeggings under a tunic but jeans yuk…. I find them way too uncomfortable. These beauties, however, with their elasticated back waist section,  are my go to trews for lounging about it or when I want to feel like a Hoxton Hipster !  : ) They also look great with sandals or flatties. Wear with short or long tees.  You don’t have to tuck in your tee either, cover any lumps and bumps (we all have them!) with a tee or a tie belt (I love a tie belt).

Remember Elsie can be made in linen, heres a link to a fab linen supplier at reasonable prices…..

Fabric inspirations linen

These trousers can also be made in a floppy viscose or polyester fabric for a ‘Palazzo Pants’ style which are perfect for holidays. Imagine lounging around the pool on a hot evening, sipping cocktails in your palazzos …… (well a girl can dream cant she!).

Elsie has front pleats on to the waistband and an elasticated back waistband (yippee!) so no zips just pull em on! There are also two rather lovely inset side pockets and an optional tie belt…..did I mention that already?

Heres a picture of Matilda wearing a longer version of Elsie made in a polyester print.

Tilly in elsie jpg

Actually Ive also made them from African Dutch Wax and I think they look oh so cool, perfect for holidays.

IMG_1529 sq 2The pattern comes in two lengths – cropped or full length so if you can check the size chart for more details about the finished measurements and fabric quantities.

My cropped Elsie trousers (pattern cover picture) measured 22cm from the bottom of the hem to the ground, you may like to use this measurement as a guide as to how long your cropped trousers should be on you. Some of us have longer legs than others, so you can adapt the length to suit your body if needed.

Here is a chart showing the measurements:

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You will need to allow at least 10-15cm at the waist/hips (whichever is the largest measurement) for ‘ease’ this allows you to pull them on and off without struggle. Here are the finished waist/hip measurements:Screen Shot 2019-08-23 at 15.47.53What are the fabrics suitable to make Elsie trousers in:  linen, linen mixes or 6 oz denim (make sure its really nice and soft and has some drape to it).  Then viscose, polyester drapey fabrics. Try to avoid anything too lightweight and nothing see through (no VPL s please!).

For Cutting instructions and Layplans see the paper pattern. You also need a half metre of 4cm elastic (soft variety) and 20cm of fusible light/med weight interfacing.

Here is an edited down version of the pattern instructions to give you an idea about whats involved.

Seam allowance is 1cm.

SEWING THE FRONT & BACK

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Sew the fronts together RST at the centre front edge.  Do the same with the back pieces at the centre back edges. Finish the seam allowances together.

PLEATS

3a

Pin the pleats as shown on the template on the front only. pleat LHS

Two on the left hand side of the centre seam.pleat RHSTwo on the right hand side of the centre seam.3So it looks like this. Machine tack stitch the pleats to hold in position along the top edge so you can remove the pins and the pleats are held in position.

POCKETS

9Pin a pocket lining to the outer curved edge with the RST. (right sides together). Sew along curved edge. Fold over and press to the reverse side. Pin then top stitch close to the curved edge.

Repeat for the other side and other pocket lining piece.

10

1112

Add the pocket piece to the outer curved edge of the pocket lining with the RST.

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Finish the raw edges and pin then machine tack to the trouser top and side edges. Machine tack. Repeat for the other pocket.

17Sew the front to the back at the side edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges.18

Sew the trousers together at the inner leg edges again with the RST. Finish the raw edges.

Now to the……drum roll please!

WAISTBAND 

First make your tabs for the belt, or omit this if you are not having a belt.

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Fold over the tab long sides 1cm to the wrong side. Press. Fold again in half. Pin, topstitch close to each long side.

Press over 1cm at one short side. Place to one side. Repeat for the other three tab pieces.

SEWING THE WAISTBAND  -Method 1

If you have an over locker you could insert the waistband this quick way…for an alternative way see the following section -Method 2.

19Interface the front waistband only. Pin and sew RST at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. 20Fold in half so the WST (wrong sides are together), match the raw edges.Screen Shot 2019-05-13 at 15.31.00Pin the elastic at the side seams and extend across at the Back section.22Machine tack close to the raw edges, making sure you don’t sew in any elastic. Finish the raw edge, also on the trousers front and back top edge.

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25Pin the waistband piece to the trousers top edge, align front and back, match up the side seams. Insert the tab piece short end under the waistband before you stitch, align with the outer pleats and insert two tabs in the same way under the back waistband. Hand tack stitch. Sew all around pushing the elastic beyond the (dropped down) needle as you go, careful not to sew the elastic so push it away from the seam edge or pin it in position.

Press the waistband upwards, seam allowance downwards on the reverse side.

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Pin the folded tab end at the top secure with a small stitched rectangle end encasing the raw tab edge.

WAISTBAND – Method 2 (alternative method) where you encase the raw edges in the waistband.

So just like the previous method you sew the waistband together at the short sides with the RST.19

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Sew the elastic to the side seams, extend over the the back section.28Fold over and press 1cm to the wrong side all around one long raw edge of the waistband.

29Pin the waistband unfolded edge to the trousers top edge., match up the side seams and align the back and front. Sew all around. Insert the tabs as in Method 1.30Fold the waistband up. Press at the seamline.

31Fold over to the reverse side of the waistband encasing all the raw edges, keep passing the fabric along the elastic so you are always working with a flat piece of waistband.

Pin all around then either ‘stitch in the ditch’ or hand sew all around with a small slip stitch to secure the waistband edge. Press.

TIE BELT (optional)1Join the tie pieces with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.2

Fold the tie in half lengthways align the raw edges. Pin. Sew along one long edge and down each slanted edge leaving a 4cm approx opening at the centre join section. Leave a long end for turning. Trim the seam allowances to 5mm.3

Tie the thread end on to a blunt ended chunky needle and pass in between the tie folds and out through the opening. Pull gently to turn inside out. Push out the pointed ends with a poking tool or tease out with a strong needle. Press so the fold is in line with the seam.

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Top stitch all around which will close up the opening at the same time. Job done!IMG_1286

Insert through your little tabs and tie in a lovely bow. Esme would be proud. (this won’t make much sense if you don’t watch The Great British Sewing Bee!).

Lastly make a 2cm hem on the lower edge of your trousers.

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Ta dah!

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