So finally she’s here…. Mildred!
As you can see from the pictures above, Mildred is A-line shape, in a choice of short or long lengths. She’s got two adjustable shoulder straps attached with buttons, one large front pocket, two cheeky back pockets and bags of practical style. Whats not to love.
I wear this pinafore a lot. I’ve made it in 8 oz soft denim (see above), needlecord (see below), linen and a linen mix. Here is a link to a company that sells wonderful denims that I would heartily recommend.
And if you would like to use linen theres always these guys…..
To say this dress is quick to make is an understatement. An afternoon’s sewing and you are done. I couldn’t wait to try it on and was very reluctant to take it off! Its very roomy because I wanted to be able to wear a jumper underneath in Winter and a tee in Summer. I really love the big front pocket, a great place for plonking glasses which is useful for someone who spends half her life looking for them…. groan! Sometimes I sew a vertical line down the centre of the front pocket to divide it up, or split the pocket pattern and make two front pockets instead of one. The back pockets are just the right size too. Its perfect for sewers to keep their equipment whilst on the job!
By the way, lets talk about topstitching. I didnt topstitch my Mildred (pictured), I was worried about wobbly lines but you could easily do so with either some contrast colour thread and lengthen the stitch, or use a top stitch thread for a more defined line. Or why not do a double line of stitching around the pockets.
I always find using my walking foot a fantastic help when topstitching because it helps glide over those bulky seams that can sometimes obstruct the flow of the stitching.
A walking foot
What else is there to say about this beauty? Well you may wonder why it’s called Mildred? Well, when I was courting my husband (or was it the other way around? hmm) we enjoyed hanging out at a place called Mildred’s cafe in London’s Soho, I think it was one of the first Vegan cafes in London, anyway its a fab place and still going strong.
Why not make Mildred in a shorter length in printed needlecord like this one. It looks great with knee high boots and woolly tights in Winter.
Here is all the info you need to know about Mildred.
Here are a few step by step photos to give you an idea about….
HOW TO MAKE MILDRED
Firstly the straps are sewn down each long side and one short side with the right sides together (RST), trim the seam allowances to 5mm. Nick across the corners at the straight ends.
Then, turn them inside out.
These loop turners are quite good tools for doing this. If you haven’t got one, get one! They are invaluable.
Press them, then top stitch like so…
Join the back pieces RST, Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch. By the way, its a good idea to finish your raw vertical edges beforehand either with an overlocker, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.
Now there are no pics here about the pockets, but I would advise attaching them at this stage. In the pattern it leaves this bit to the end, which allows you to re-position them to suit you if you want to, but if you are happy with the position as shown on the template, its a lot easier to sew them on before you sew the front and back together. Just saying!
Next pin, tack stitch the straps at the slanted edge at the back.
Join the interfaced facing pieces at the sides with the RST. Press. Finish the raw outer edge.
Join the front to the back at the side edges.
Insert the facing. pin, matching up the cross seams. Hand tack.
Sew! Nick the seam allowances, trim across the corners. 
Turn it to the RS, push out the edges. Press. Topstitch along the upper edge. Attach some buttons and (optional) buttonholes.
Ta dah! Easy peasy pattern dont you think?
This is the back view. Some great pockets with a little bit slanted on the corners.
If you would like to make your own Mildred Pinafore Dress from a pattern, here is a link to my ETSY SHOP
Happy sewing!
Cut a line across perpendicular to the line A, move so the pattern is aligned at the lower edge. Place a piece of paper behind each open section and tape in position. 
Long version front view in wool mix jacquard.
Long version back view.
Short jacket version in boiled wool
Sew 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Topstitching –sew 4mm approx. from seam with a straight stitch length at 2.8mm. Stay stitching- a line of straight stitch to prevent stretching
The Back belt is optional but I think its nice feature to the rear angle! Stitch down each side, then turn inside out. Press.
Top stitch down each side.
Pin the back belt to the back piece at each side. Machine tack within the seam allowance.
Finish the outer edge of the pockets and pocket lining pieces. Pin the pocket piece at each side matching the curved edge. Sew. Clip the seam allowances.
Turn to the WS and topstitch 1cm away from the edge..
Pin the pocket lining piece to the pocket at the outer edge. Sew.
Tack stitch at the sections above the pocket curve to secure.
Pin, then sew the front to back at the shoulder edges. Finish the raw edges together. Press towards the back. Top stitch on the right side. Staystitch around the neck edge.
Pin the facing to the Front at the top side edge. Sew. Press the seam allowances open.
Pin the neck facing to the neck edge, match up the cross seams. Hand tack stitch all around the neck edge. Sew.
Nick the seam allowance all around.
Fold over to the reverse side. Hand tack stitch around the neck facing. Fold over 1cm at the centre front edge. Press. Hand tack stitch down the front to secure.
Pin the sleeves RST at the long side edges. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Turn under the cuff hem, press, pin. Stitch.
Pin the sleeve to the body, align the back of the sleeve head (see template) to the back. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Topstitch on the RS.
Pin, hand tack the pocket to the body. On the reverse side, stitch around the pocket with a longer stitch length. This will define the pocket on the RS. Like this……
Cover the buttons then stitch on some large snap fasteners in the position as shown on the template.
Lottie Duster, a coat or dress depending on what fabric you use. Pop it on as an extra layer in Autumn or Spring, its a useful addition to your wardrobe. Easy to make, suitable for adventurous beginners. If you are fazed by the buttonholes just leave them out, personally, I wear Lottie open most of the time anyway.
The collar is made by sewing the outer curved edge without the notches then after nicking and trimming the seam allowance its turned inside out, pressed then top stitched. Then tack stitch along the raw edge to hold together. Place to one side.
After interfacing the back facing, pin to the front facing at the shoulders. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Turn under the outer edge 1cm and press. Then stitch. Turn under the lower edge of the facing 1cm and stitch.
Sew the front sleeve to the front at the slanted edge. Join to the back sleeve. Join the back sleeve to the back. Finish the raw edges. Press. Repeat for the other side.
Join the front to back at the side seams, leave the lower section open for the side slits. Finish the raw edges above the slit section. Press.
Nick the seam allowance just above the slit section to open the seam at the lower section. Fold over the side slits at the raw edge 1cm then again 2cm. Press. Sew.
Press under the hem at the lower front edge 1cm then again 2cm. Sew.
Starting at the centre of the back neck, pin the collar at the centre point to the neck edge matching up the notches to the sleeve seams.
Starting at the back neck, pin the facing piece at the centre of the back facing with the RS together to the collar.
With the lower edge of the facing turned under and stitched 1cm, align at the lower edge.
Hand Tack!
You might like to mark the curved stitch line with an invisible pen to help you as it is important that both sides are the same.
Stitch!
Nick the curved seam allowances. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.
Pin to the reverse side and press so that the seam line is aligned with the fold. Push out the collar with a poking tool to get the curves.
Pin the facing all around.
Top stitch all around 1cm from the edge.
Make a hem at the sleeve raw edge. Fold over 1cm then again 3cm. Press. Pin. Stitch.
Pin the pockets RS together. Stitch all around leaving a small opening at one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Nick the curved corners.
Turn inside out, push out the corners with a poking tool. Press well, aligning the seam line to the fold. Top stitch all around. Press over the flap section as shown on the template. 
Pin to the coat in position as shown on the pattern. Tack stitch to hold. Sew all around a second line of stitching close to the outer edge and parallel to the top stitching. Reinforce the corners at the top just below the flap fold. Sew on a button at each pocket or leave without.
Pin the tie belt pieces RS together. Sew all around, leave a small opening at the centre for turning. Trim the seam allowance and nick the curved corners. 
Turn the tie inside out and push out the curved ends with a poking tool. Press well so that the seam line is in line with the fold all around.
Topstitch all around the outer edge.
Attach to the coat at each side in position as shown on the template with a box stitch.
Sew your buttonholes. Use the template as a guide to the position.
One last thing, you may like to insert small pieces of wondaweb under the facing to secure the facing in place. You could also stitch a few stitches at the shoulder seam to secure the neck facing.
Edith – An artists smock style loose fitting tunic for everyday wear. Straightforward to make with easy sew long sleeves, a deep round neck, lots of cross seams and topstitching (oh yes I do love topstitching!) and two inset pockets. Edith has an open loop and button back neck detail so its easy to get on and off. Theres lots of room in this tunic to move, eat and do what you will!
You can sew a single or double line of topstitching as you prefer.
Heres a close up of those nifty inset pockets which are hidden within the seam line. Before you start, its a good idea to measure where the pocket seam line will be on you. If you need to make any adjustments to the length of the upper and lower body sections, you can do this before you cut out. by tracing off the pattern and making alterations. Just extend or shorten the lower edge of the upper front and back by sliding the pattern down or up, then match up at the sides. Repeat for the lower section.
I made it 12cm shorter on the lower front and back section only. I didn’t attach the sleeves, just turned under a small 1cm hem and stitched a double row of topstitching.
Then repeat with the upper front pieces and the lower back pieces.
Finish the outer 3 sides of the pockets.
Pin the pockets to the upper front and lower front in position as shown on the template.
Press downwards on the upper front and upwards on the lower front. Topstitch along the top edge of the 4 pockets in non contrast thread.
Pin the upper front to the lower front with the RST (right sides together). Sew across all around the pockets. Press.
Join the front to back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch.
Interface the reverse side of the neck facing pieces. Join together at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge all around.
Pin to the neck edge. Hand tack stitch all around .
Snip! Clip the curved seam allowances to allow it to sit flat when its turned to the right side. Don’t forget to trim across the corners too.
Press to the reverse side. Align the seam line to the fold all around.
Fold the loop piece in half lengthways, press. Stitch down one long side at the raw edges leaving a long thread end. 
Hand tack stitch the facing all around to secure it.
Machine stitch 4cm from the neck edge all around.
Pin the sleeve to the body. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press away from the body. Topstitch. Easy peasy!
Pin then sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST.
Clip the curved seam allowances at the underarm section.
Hem the sleeve edge with a contrast thread. Hem the lower edge with the background colour thread. 
Invisible zips are nice to look at, they give a professional finish to your garment and with a bit of practise are actually not difficult to insert when you know how.
BACK
Before you start, take a look at the back of your invisible zipper. See how the coils of the zipper curl toward the back? This is what makes the zipper less visible than a normal zipper. You will need to uncurl those coils by gently ironing the zipper flat first with the tip of a warm iron. This lets you stitch much closer to the coils.
Lay your garment right side up, facing you. Place one side of the open zipper face down on the fabric and lined up one zip outside edge with one side of the fabric raw edge. NB there is a 1cm seam allowance with Cecily dress, however, if you have a 1.5cm seam allowance, then place with a 5mm space between the zip and the outside edge. Pin in position, with Cecily dress start just below the dart. If you have a cross seam (at the waistline for example) then mark the back of your zip each side so that you ensure your cross seams match up after sewing in your zipper. Hand tack.
Stick a piece either side of the back of the zip.
Having inserted the invisible zipper foot into your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. If you don’t have an invisible zip foot, use a standard zip foot and nudge the needle over so it lines up with the coil underneath or as near to the teeth as possible.
Sew slowly as far as you can and (if you are using a standard foot, as close to the teeth as you can without sewing over the teeth). Stop when you reach the end of the zipper. Backstitch. Repeat for the other side of the zip.
Press the seams open on the back and press the zip on the right and wrong sides so that the coils spring back into action.
There you have now mastered the art of the concealed zip!
The pattern comes in two lengths – cropped or full length so if you can check the size chart for more details about the finished measurements and fabric quantities.
What are the fabrics suitable to make Elsie trousers in: linen, linen mixes or 6 oz denim (make sure its really nice and soft and has some drape to it). Then viscose, polyester drapey fabrics. Try to avoid anything too lightweight and nothing see through (no VPL s please!).
Two on the right hand side of the centre seam.
So 
Pin a pocket lining to the outer curved edge with the RST. (right sides together). Sew along curved edge. Fold over and press to the reverse side. Pin then top stitch close to the curved edge.
Sew the front to the back at the side edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges.
Interface the front waistband only. Pin and sew RST at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. 
Fold in half so the WST (wrong sides are together), match the raw edges.
Pin the elastic at the side seams and extend across at the Back section.
Machine tack close to the raw edges, making sure you don’t sew in any elastic. Finish the raw edge, also on the trousers front and back top edge.
Pin the waistband piece to the trousers top edge, align front and back, match up the side seams. Insert the tab piece short end under the waistband before you stitch, align with the outer pleats and insert two tabs in the same way under the back waistband. Hand tack stitch. Sew all around pushing the elastic beyond the (dropped down) needle as you go, careful not to sew the elastic so push it away from the seam edge or pin it in position.
Fold over and press 1cm to the wrong side all around one long raw edge of the waistband.
Pin the waistband unfolded edge to the trousers top edge., match up the side seams and align the back and front. Sew all around. 
Fold the waistband up. Press at the seamline.
Fold over to the reverse side of the waistband encasing all the raw edges, keep passing the fabric along the elastic so you are always working with a flat piece of waistband.
Join the tie pieces with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.
