What a fab hat! I just love it! Make in tweed, cotton prints, denim, needlecord, its an Autumn/Winter wardrobe essential. Use some fleece interfacing or wadding/batting to add extra warmth on cold days, or add standard fusible interfacing for a Spring/Summer season version.
This Sewgirl pattern is available either as a PDF download or as a paper pattern (link above to my Etsy shop). Brompton hat can be made in sizes small, medium or large. To measure your head diameter, extend a tape measure around your forehead and above your ears.
SMALL = 55cm MEDIUM = 57cm LARGE = 59cm
Suitable for sewists with some previous experience.
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS (for 112cm & 140cm width)
50cm of outer fabric such as woollen tweeds, needlecord, denim or medium weight cotton. 30cm of medium or lightweight cotton or satin lining fabric. 30cm of fusible volume fleece (Vilene H640) interfacing or some wadding.
20cm of medium / heavyweight fusible interfacing. A reel of thread.
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED Spray glue (optional), masking tape, tailor’s ham, pinking shears, pins / quilter’s clips, stitch ripper and a poking tool. Insert a walking foot attachment on your machine if you have one, which will make it easier to sew.
So here we are at last…..a long awaited top!!! Yaaay!
This one is so chic and versatile too, you can dress it up or wear in a relaxed weekend sort of way. I’ve made the short version in a cool cotton voile and the long sleeved version in a snuggly cotton/linen denim look twill which is lovely and soft. Both these fabrics (and Peggy top pattern) are normally stocked on my ETSY SHOP subject to availability.
Peggy top can be made in two different sleeve lengths, long or short. You can either just hem the sleeve edge, as shown in the above left picture or add an elasticated channel as shown in the right hand picture to make a lovely subtle puff sleeve effect. It also has a nice side slit opening, so its very comfortable to wear.
The top pattern kit looks like this and comes with fabric, pattern templates, instructions, a piece of elastic, interfacing and a self cover button all packed up in a recycled kraft bag with handles. Yummy!
So let me talk you through this easy to make top. Well, its round necked, boxy shape with bust darts and a rather nice back neck loop and button opening (see below).
Peggy top is suitable for adventurous beginners, so maybe you’ve cut your teeth on cushions and bag projects and would like to try some simple dressmaking, well this would be a perfect starter pattern as its really quite a straightforward make. Why not take a look at this condensed tutorial blogpost and it will give you an idea about whats involved.
Here are some measurements for you to check over. The pattern is good for sizes 8-20 by the way. If you need to make adjustments to the pattern, check out the tutorials such as Adjusting a Bust dart.
Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8″), however if you prefer to use a 1.5cm (5/8″), then just add 5mm to the outer edges (except for those which are ‘Place on fold’).
Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
You may like to use a contrast colour thread for the topstitching, as I did with the long top to get that ‘jeans’ stitch detail. You don’t need a special topstitch thread in particular, just a colour that will show up).
CUTTING GUIDE – are all shown in the instructions booklet.
HOW TO MAKE PEGGY TOP
SHORT ELASTICATED SLEEVES (For long sleeves scroll down to the next section….)
LONG ELASTICATED SLEEVES
Self cover buttons… (who doesn’t love a covered button? )
Here she is! A long time coming, but we finally got there. The very fabulous Betty dress pattern ta dah!
Now I have to admit, I don’t normally make many things in pretty pink colour, I’m normally a practical blue kinda girl, but I do think this colour shows up the detail of the dress quite well, so thats what I went with.
So what can I say about Betty…. well, she is very easy to make, oh so comfortable to wear and well, just lovely really. She’s V-neck, button down (more about that later) with a gathered skirt section on to quite a loose fitting slightly dropped waistline, a curved detail on the side hem is a bit like a shirt style, rolled back sleeves and two patch pockets. The tie belt is optional of course, below shows you a photo of one I wear with a rather smart leather belt (link to where you can buy one at the end of this post.
Now lets talk about buttonholes. There are some people who may be put off by them or don’t want to be bothered with these small but ever so terrifying things, but fear not! Betty can be made without them quite easily. You can pop Betty on with just stitched on buttons. Do you see the blue version below? well that’s exactly what I did with this one, I wanted to live with it first before committing to them, but I’m not sure I will ever get around to doing them but hey whose going to notice!
Or, my friends, you may like to make a Betty Hack ! Its Oh so easy and I think I love this version even more than the button down version.
So this hack is even easier to make, Its got no buttons on the skirt, just on the bodice and Ive shortened it a bit too by taking 2cm off the bodice lower edge and 2cm off the top edge of the skirt. Ive popped a little tutorial at the bottom of this post so just scroll down and you will find it.
So Betty is great in all sorts of patterned and plain medium weight cotton fabrics, linen and linen mix fabrics and soft lightweight denims. Here are some links to fabric companies who stock suitable fabrics.
The linen shown above is available to buy from the Etsy shop.
Heres the very lovely Amy Scarr, ex-editor of Love Sewing magazine, in her printed cotton lawn versions of Betty dress, which look just great. You can follow her sewing adventures on Instagram @almondrock_sews or almondrock.co.uk.
Fabrics courtesy of Atelier Brunette (pic 1) and Lady McElroy (pic 2).
Here is all the info about sizes, finished measurements and fabric requirements.
SEWING A BETTY DRESS
Seam allowance is 1cm. RST= Right Sides Together.
Before you start here are some pattern cutting tips.
Making adjustments to Betty
You may want to make the bodice or skirt section shorter or longer.
So, if this is the case, firstly, measure for your size according to the pattern size info (shown above). Then you need to measure yourself for the desired bodice length from top of the shoulder to the desired length. Now add on 2cm to this measurement for the seam allowances. Next, compare this length to the pattern and you may find that you require a shorter/longer length from one of the other sizes. I prefer to fold back my pattern to the desired line to keep it intact, but if you are drafting your pattern, you just trace the required line.
If you adjust the bodice length, remember its going to make the dress shorter or longer so check that measurement is good and you are happy with the adjustment. If you need to make the skirt section shorter or longer do so at the top edge of the skirt section. Its gathered at the top edge so any extra width will be lost in the gathering.
Finally adjust the button positions accordingly.
HOW TO MAKE BETTY DRESS
JOINING THE SHOULDERS
Joining the shoulder seams. Finish the raw edges, pressing towards the back. Topstitching.
Sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges.
Sew the skirt together at the side edges with the RST. Press.
Gather up the fabric at the top edge of the skirt section.
Attach to the bodice with the RST. Press the seam allowance upwards. Topstitch on the bodice side.
FACINGSJoin the facings front and back at the short edges with the RST. Press open. Finish the outer edge.Pin to the centre front and back neck edge. Sew. Press the facing away from the body. Understitch.
Fold back the facing at the centre lower edge with the RST. Stitch across 1cm up from the lower edge. Trim across the corner, then turn inside out, pushing out the corners with a poking tool.
Press the facing to the reverse side all around. Pin. Hand tack. Top stitch on the reverse side close to the outer edge to secure the facing.
Make your pockets by hemming the top edge and finishing the outer 3 edges. Press over 1cm at these 3 edges.
Pin to the body. Hand tack stitch. Topstitch close to the edge.
Fold over a 4cm hem at the sleeve edge. Press. Pin. Stitch.
Fold back 2cm. Press. Secure with a few hand stitches at the underarm cross seam to secure if required.
Make your buttonholes, use the position on the template as a guide.
Make your 3 tabs by pressing inwards 1cm each long side, then fold in half. Press, stitch down each long side. Fold up 1cm each short end. Pin to the dress at the sides and centre back. Stitch across the top and lower edge to secure.
Join the belt pieces together at the short sides with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.
Fold in half so the long edges are matching with the RST. Press. Stitch down one long raw side and across the short diagonal sides, leaving approx 4cm opening at the centre point for turning inside out. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.
Turn inside out through the opening. These loop turner tools are really useful for this.
Press. Topstitch all around the outer edge, which seals up the opening at the same time. Tie in a lovely big bow and woo hoo…..ready to go!
To make the dress with no buttons on the skirt section is really easy. Just cut two back skirt pieces (on the fold) instead of the front piece, so you just have two back skirt pieces altogether.
To save on fabric, cut the Bodice Back as two pieces, so instead of normally placing the pattern against the fold, add a 1cm to the centre back edge and sew the Back pieces together. Finish the raw edge.
Shorten the facing piece to make it the same as the bodice in length. Follow the pattern as above, but gather the back and front together in one piece and attach to the bodice, making sure the front section is crossed over correctly beforehand. Here is a summary of how to do it.
If you are interested in buying a Betty dress pattern, here is a link to the Etsy shop listing. I’ve got lots of other patterns too which you may like to check out.
So here it is! …..drumroll please…….Cecily Skirt. Ta dah!
Not a day goes by, when I’m wearing this skirt, when people don’t say ‘Wow! where did you get that skirt! ‘ and I can smugly reply those immortal words…. ‘I made it myself!
What I love about this skirt, is how easy and quick it is to run up, and how comfortable it is to wear. With its elasticated back waistband, you can pretty much eat what you like, without the waistband feeling tight, (something I absolutely hate, being someone who loves their grub!).
So also, you will be delighted to hear, its got pockets! ….and two of em! There are also no zips, thanks to Mr Elastico. Having said that, the skirt isn’t bulky at the front because of its flattering front pleats or gathers if you are making with the blue ink spot fabric. Whats not to love?
Cecily skirt is quite long in length, with a maximum length of approx 75cm, but of course you could make it shorter. I love to wear mine with leggings or pedal pushers and a tee or a boxy top. If you fancy adding a belt and some tabs like this…. scroll down to the waistband section where it will tell you how its done.
Here is the Sewgirl African fabric kit all packed up in a fab recycled bag, but it can also be purchased as the pattern only, which includes instructions, interfacing and elastic for you to use your own fabric.
A piece of fusible interfacing (enough for the front waistband)
One French hair barrette
and if you have the complete kit with fabric it comes with 1.8m (2 yards) of fabulous genuine African Dutch wax fabric – lovely and soft, 100% cotton with really zingy colours. (Its 112cm wide by the way)
Im popping one in your kit in case you fancy making a matching hair accessory either like this, or the little one with a button.
You can find a tutorial for making one of these at the bottom of the page.
THE FINISHED SKIRT LENGTH IS:
HOW TO MAKE CECILY SKIRT
So you have 4 paper pattern pieces: Front & Back (1), Front Waistband (2), Back Waistband (3), Pocket (4).
You’ve ironed your fabric and folded it, so that the selvedges are aligned with the RST (Right Sides Together) and laid it out nicely on a table or floor. Pin the pieces as shown on the Layplans in the pattern.
You will need to cut:
Front & Back (1)– Cut two on the fold of the fabric. With ‘Inkspot’ cotton voile fabric for sizes 16-20, cut to the width of the fabric (which is 108cm wide).
Front Waistband (2)– Cut one *Iron fusible interfacing to the reverse side of the Front waistband only.
Back Waistband (3)– Cut one on the fold of the fabric.
Pocket (4)– Cut four (two pairs).
Optional tie belt tabs (x 2) : Cut two pieces 5cm x 8cm. Fold inwards 1cm towards the centre each long side. Press, then fold in half lengthways. You should have a folded piece measuring 1.5cm x 8cm. Stitch down each long side. Repeat for other tab. Place to one side.
Mark the pleat positions at the top edge with a marking pen or small nick within the seam allowance on the Front pieceonly. Now to the sewing bit (the best bit).
Remember the seam allowance is 1cm!
SEWING THE FRONT TO BACK & POCKETS. (For all skirts)
Pin one pocket piece on each side of the Front and Back pieces in position as shown on the template. Sew down the straight vertical side edge.
2. Press the pocket away from the Front and Back piece. Topstitch on the pocket side.
Now if you have an African skirt kit make with pleats at the front top edge as shown below.
If you have an indian voile kit like this one…I would advise gathering the front instead of putting pleats in. Miss out the pleat section and continue at step 4a.
3. On the Front piece ONLY, pin the pleats in the marked positions as shown on the template.
Stitch across the top edge within the seam allowance to secure the pleats. Now go to step 4.
GATHERING (if you prefer instead of front pleats)
Instead of pleats , voile fabric can take soft gathers as its needs more cover being light in weight. So to do this set your sew machine to the maximum stitch length (usually 4 or 5) and sew a line one approx 1cm from the top edge. Its a good idea to finish your top raw edge first and remember you are only doing gathering on the front section, the back will be gathered by the elastic we are inserting later.
So after sewing your line of long stitches pull the top thread only to gather up or ‘ease’ as we call this technique in the trade. Its a bit like gathering up the top of curtains if ever you’ve had this wondrous experience! Gather up the fabric to the same width as the front waistband. You can go to the next stage and adjust your gathers later.
JOINING THE FRONT TO THE BACK (Both skirts)
4. With the RST, pin the Front piece to the Back piece at the side edges. Sew from the top of the side edge, all around the pocket to the lower edge. Repeat for the other side.
5. Finish the raw edges together. Press. Finish the top raw edge of the Front & Back all around.
Now, take your elastic piece which has been cut in the length according to your size and pin the elastic to the side seams. Aligning the top of the elastic with the waistband centre fold and approx 1.5cm away from the lower raw edge, laying it across the back waistband. Sew along the side seam each side to secure the elastic.
9. Fold back the waistband piece. Pin along the lower edge. Machine tack stitch all around, as before, easing the fabric beyond the elastic as you go. Heres that video link again to show you how in case you missed it video about putting in the elastic
Optional tabs:at this stage you might like to add the belt tabs and make a tie belt. Instructions for making up the tab pieces is in the cutting guide. Place each tab unfolded short raw edge at the waistband raw edge at each side seam with the tab hanging downwards towards the skirt. Machine tack within the seam allowance to hold. Continue…
10. Pin the waistband to the skirt top edge. Sew. Tip: ease the gathers of the fabric past the (dropped down) needle as you go, so you are always sewing flat fabric.
11. Press the seam allowance downwards, topstitch on the skirt side all around to secure in place.
Optional tab: Fold up the tab piece that has been stitched into the waistband seam. Press over 1cm at the raw edge, pin at the top of the waistband edge, then topstitch it to secure.
Close up of tab at the top edge
12. Hem the raw lower edge of the Front & Back piece all around. Fold over and press a 2cm hem at the lower edge or length as required. Pin. Sew close to the edge. Press.
Pop it on and admire your handiwork!
MAKING AN OPTIONAL TIE BELT
Cut two pieces of fabric 10cm x 100cm. Join them together at the short edges with the RST. Press the seam allowance open. Fold the tie in half lengthways. Press. Pin. Sew down the two short edges and one long raw edge with a 1cm seam allowance but leave an opening at the centre join of around 4cm. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm and trim across the seam allowance corners. Turn the tie inside out through the opening, pushing out the corners with a poking tool. press so that the seam line is in line with the fold. Topstitch all around approx 3mm from the edge, thus closing up the opening. Feed through the tabs and Voila! Now who doesn’t love a bow tie!
MAKING A MATCHING HAIR RAG ACCESSORY
Using your French hair barrette as a base, cut (or tear) long thin strips of fabric approx 1cm wide. Cut the long strips into 10 pieces approx 10-12cm long.
Tie a strip of fabric on to the top metal bar on the barrette with one tight knot, leave a long end. Repeat with the other strips, pushing them up tightly, squashing them together as much as possible. Trim the fabric ends or leave as long as you like. Trim with pinking shears if you have a pair for added jagged edges. There you have it!
Or using a small barrette make a charming little rosette with a centre button to adorn your hair.
CECILY SKIRT KIT OR PATTERN ONLY IS NOW AVAILABLE TO BUY ON MY ETSY SHOP
Square ones, round ones, plain, multicoloured they support the backs of the world! They give a colour pop to our sofas, garden furniture and beds, like pieces of art brightening up our homes.
A cushion is a wonderful thing. As my husband put it “what is it with women and cushions?” Well, he’s the first one to bolster himself up with a morning cuppa in bed, so I think that men secretly love them just as much as we do!
Anyway down to business…..
HOW TO MAKE A SQUARE ENVELOPE CUSHION
Here is a tutorial about how to make an envelope cushion. To make a 16″ square envelope cushion you will need:
50cm of main fabric, a reel of thread, two 25mm buttons (optional) and a cushion pad inner (polyester or feather).
You can make a cushion from all sorts of fabric, but if you fancy making in African fabric you can see my selection via my ETSY SHOP where I have half metres available and patchwork packs. Here is a selection of some of them.
By the way, I also have a small video on Facebook and Instagram showing you my fabrics in my Funky Kitchen and Lounging around showing you my cushions in situ. Just saying!
So you have a good pair of scissors and a ruler, you need get cutting out the pieces.
For a 16″ cushion you need to:
Cut out one piece 43cm x 43cm (front) and two pieces 43cm x 35cm (back).
*With the two back pieces, fold over and press 1cm then again 2cm at one long edge on each piece. Pin, then sew close to the inner fold to make two back pieces with hemmed finished edges.If you would like to insert a buttonhole and button fastening, do so at this stage after making the back hems.
You may have a one step buttonhole attachment – see below for the different types.
Here are links to You tube video tutorials about how to make a one or four step buttonholes:
Not sure which one you have with your machine? Well if you have an attachment like this in pic 1 its a four step:
Or a one step buttonhole attachment looks like this:
if you don’t have either, its possible your machine doesn’t buttonhole, in which case, leave your cushion opening open on the back, thats no big deal!
So place one or two buttonholes on the back, I like to place one centrally on the hem or two approx 15cm apart. The buttons are stitched on at the end.
If you don’t want to add buttons, just skip this stage.
Now to sew the cushion together.
With the right sides of the fabric together, matching the raw three sides, place one back piece at each side on top of the front piece so that the hemmed sides overlap at the centre. Pin all around.
Sew all around the outer edge with a 1cm seam allowance, drop the needle into the fabric at the corners when pivoting at the corner to avoid losing your place.
Zig zag the raw edge all around to stop fraying.
Trim across the seam allowance corners, this reduces the bulk and makes the corners more pointy.
Turn inside out and push out the corners with a poking tool, a knitting needle, chopstick or scissors end are all good but take care not to poke a hole in your corner! (been there done that!).
Press and insert a cushion pad. Let your cushion relax into its pad and then mark the button position through the centre of each buttonhole. Sew on the buttons in position.
HOW TO MAKE AN 18″ SQUARE PATCHWORK CUSHION
Now who fancies making a patchwork cushion? Heres an 18″ one I made from African fabric.
I have some fabric packs in stock on my Etsy shop so check them out there.
To make a patched front (I like to have a plain linen back) but you could also patch the back too.
To make an 18″ patch cushion you will need to cut:
FRONT PIECE: 9 squares of different fabric 16 cm x 16cm (6 1/4″)
BACKING: one piece 47cm x 47cm (18.5″ x 18.5″) (linen, cotton fabric is good) if you are putting a zip in or two pieces 47cm x 35cm for an envelope style backing. Repeat in Batting* if you would like to quilt your fabric
BATTING*: use a bamboo one for eco friendliness heres a good one, Polyester or cotton thin batting would also work.EBAY BATTING SUPPLIER
PATCHING TOGETHER THE PIECES
Arrange your squares in the formation you require and in 3 rows of 3.
With the right sides of the fabric together and the raw edges aligned, pin pieces 1 & 2 together and sew with a 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance. Then sew piece 3 to the piece 2 you have just sewn. Press the seam allowance to one side. Repeat for the remaining 2 sets of three squares so you have 3 sets of 3 altogether. Tip: press your seam allowances in opposite directions on each band.
When you have completed three strips of 3 squares, join the first band to the second and then the second to the third, again with the right sides of the fabric together and raw edges aligned.
If you would like to quilt your front piece this is the stage to lay your batting to the reverse side of your front piece and back piece(s). Pin or fuse with fabric spray glue if you have it.
Quilt the front piece (and back too if you would like more stitch detailing) as required, you may need to insert a walking foot on your machine to ease the flow of the fabric.
Press. Now continue with the instructions for constructing the cushion same as the envelope cushion above * to **
Now, if you would like to make a cushion with half triangle squares (its the one shown above at the back) just cut out 9 slightly larger squares 6 1/2″ (16.5cm). Make your triangles by following this video tutorial…
You need 6 pieces of different fabric prints 25cm x 25cm (10″ x 10″), backing fabric 50cm x 50cm, two 25mm-30mm buttons, one round 18″ cushion pad. Ebay cushion pad shop.
From the constructed template cut out one piece each in the different fabrics. Sew two pieces together with the long sides aligned and the right sides of the fabric together*. Press. Then sew on the third segment to the two part piece so you have two pieces of 3 joined segments.
Then sew the two semi circle pieces of 3 segments together, aligning the longest edges with the RST* Press. You can add batting to the reverse side if you would like.
Finally with the RST, pin the circle piece to the square backing piece. Stitch all around the curved outer edge 1cm from the edge but leave one section unstitched for inserting the cushion. Insert the cushion. Stitch up the opening with a small slip stitch. Sew on the buttons at the centre either side, passing the needle from one side to the other and pulling tight so that it pulls the cushion in at the centre and covers the corner bits.
MAKING A CO ORDINATING LAMPSHADEFrom a half metre length of fabric you can cover a lampshade like this one. You need one 30cm diametre lampshade kit from:
As you can see from the pictures above, Mildred is A-line shape, in a choice of short or long lengths. She’s got adjustable shoulder straps attached with buttons, one large front pocket, two cheeky back pockets and bags of practical style. Whats not to love.
I wear this pinafore a lot. I’ve made it in 8oz soft denim (see above), needlecord (see below), linen and a linen mix. Here is a link to my Etsy shop where I have stock of 8oz indigo denim and linen to buy as bundles.
And if you would like a selection of linen and linen mixes in lots of colours theres these guys…..
To say this dress is quick to make is an understatement. An afternoon’s sewing and you are done. I couldn’t wait to try it on and was very reluctant to take it off! Its very roomy because I wanted to be able to wear a jumper underneath in Winter and a tee in Summer. I really love the big front pocket, a great place for plonking glasses, ideal for me as I’m someone who spends half her life looking for them…. groan! Sometimes I sew a vertical line down the centre of the front pocket to divide it up, or split the pocket pattern and make two front pockets instead of one. The back pockets are just the right size too. Mildred was inspired by an apron style so is a practical for sewers to keep their equipment whilst on the job!
By the way, lets talk about topstitching. I didn’t topstitch my Mildred (pictured), I was worried about wobbly lines, but you could easily do so with either some contrast colour thread and lengthen the stitch, or use a special top stitch thread for a more defined line. Or why not do a double line of stitching around the pockets.
I always find using my walking foot a fantastic help when topstitching because it helps glide over those bulky seams that can sometimes obstruct the flow of the stitching. If you’ve got one I would recommend popping it on, if you haven’t just lengthen your stitch when it comes to this bit.
A walking foot
What else is there to say about this beauty? Well you may wonder why it’s called Mildred? Well, when I was courting my husband (or was it the other way around? hmm) we enjoyed hanging out at a place called Mildred’s cafe in London’s Soho, I think it was one of the first Vegan cafes in London, anyway its a fab place and still going strong. I really loved the name ever since.
Mildred can be made in a shorter length, I made a shorter one in printed needlecord. It looks great with knee high boots and woolly tights in Winter.
Here is all the info you need to know about Mildred.
please note the text above the layplan should read:
Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8″), however if you would prefer to use a 1.5cm (5/8″) then cut 5mm away from the edges all around (except the edges indicated ‘Place on Fold’.
HOW TO MAKE MILDRED
Firstly the straps are sewn down each long side and one short side with the right sides together (RST), trim the seam allowances to 5mm. Nick across the corners at the straight ends. Then, turn them inside out.
These loop turners are quite good tools for doing this. If you haven’t got one, get one! They are cheap to buy and I’m sure you will find them really really useful.
Press them, then top stitch like so…
SEWING THE FRONT AND BACK
Join the back pieces RST, Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch. By the way, its a good idea to finish your raw vertical edges beforehand either with an overlocker, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.
Now there are no pics here about the pockets, but I would advise attaching them at this stage. In the pattern it leaves this bit to the end, which allows you to re-position them to suit you if you want to, but if you are happy with the position as shown on the template, its a lot easier to sew them on before you sew the front and back together. Just saying!
Next pin, tack stitch the straps at the slanted edge at the back.
Join the interfaced facing pieces at the sides with the RST. Press. Finish the raw outer edge.
Join the front to the back at the side edges.
Insert the facing. pin, matching up the cross seams. Hand tack.
Sew! Nick the seam allowances, trim across the corners.
Turn it to the RS, push out the edges. Press. Topstitch along the upper edge.
Hand stitch the facing on the inside at the side seams with a few stitches to secure it down more, or ironing on some wonderweb really helps.
POCKETS Fold over the hem at the slanted edge (front pocket) or top edge (back pocket), press. Stitch. Fold over 1cm at each remaining edge. Pin to the front (front pocket), or back (back pocket) in the position as shown on the template. Hand tack. Topstitch.
Finally, attach a button on each strap and buttonholes on the top of the front bib if you want to be able to undo it. If you don’t want to bother with buttonholes, just sew the strap and button on together so that it’s fixed.
Tip: try it on first and adjust the strap to the correct length first, pin then sew.
Patterns that have a Bodice Front with darts, such as Cecily Dress by Sewgirl, are for a bust size B. As with most patterns of this type, they are designed for a 20 year old with a B-cup size bust. Obviously as we get older, our bodies change, so the pattern dart size and position are intended as a guide which can be altered easily to suit your size and shape.
So, for example, you may need to increase or decrease the bust size to say a cup size C or D, or move the dart position down or up. This blog post, shows you how to alter both the position of the dart or alter the size.
First of all you will need to find your Apex* point and mark it on your pattern.
So what exactly is the Apex*? Well, it is the middle of the fullest point of the bust (aka nipple!). To find this, (wearing your normal bra) just measure across from one apex to the other, so with me for example its 18cm that means its 9cm each side of the centre line. Then you need to measure how far down it is situated, so measure from the top shoulder to your Apex* (it usually helps to wear something with a shoulder seam and measure from there). Mine measures 33cm, so I mark on my pattern an X – 33cm down and 9cm away from the centre line of the bodice front. Now a quick way to check its correct, is to place the pattern up against you, and see where your apex* is situated. If it matches with the one you’ve marked then you are all good to go to the next stage i.e to move the dart position or do a bust size alteration (or both).
Moving a Dart Position
To tell whether your dart is too high or low, you need to see if the line that runs right through the middle of the dart hits the apex point. You can see from this diagram that it is too high, so it will need to be lowered.
It needs to line up as shown in the diagram below…..the angle is not important.To move a dart position up or down you can do by one of two methods:
Slight Adjustment – if you just need just a slight adjustment, you can do this by changing the angle of the dart. So, firstly outline your size dart triangle in red pen, so that you can see it really clearly. Then change the angle and redraw the dart so that it points towards the new apex point. NB. The dart tip needs to be at least 2.5cm ( 1 “) away from the apex.
2. Larger Adjustment To adjust the dart position more than a centimetre or so, you will need to use a cut and paste method. So, as in the previous method, outline your dart in red pen so that you can see it more clearly.
To maintain the angle of the dart, draw a box around the dart and cut out the box. Move it to the required position, then secure with sticky tape. Fill in the cut out section with paper and tape. NB make sure you keep your box straight and not slanted when you move it.
Full Bust Adjustment (adjusting the size of your dart)
If you need to make an adjustment to the dart to accommodate a larger cup size (known as a full bust adjustment or FBA), you will need to add on the following measurement according to your bust cup size:
AA cup= reduce by 1cm.
A cup= reduce by 6mm.
B cup= NO CHANGE.
C cup= add 1cm.
D cup = add 1.9cm.
DD cup= add 3.2cm.
1. Firstly, draw three lines as shown by the red in the picture A, B and C (below)
Line A: extends from the Apex point* vertically to the lower edge.
Line B: extends from the Apex point to a point a third of the way up on the lower armhole.
Line C:extends from the Apex point to the side seam through the middle of the leg of the dart.
2. Cut the lines as follows:
Line A: cut from the apex to the lower edge.
Line B: cut from the apex to the armhole edge but stop a few millimetres before the edge.
Line C:cut from the side seam to the apex but stop a few millimetres before the apex.
3. Spread the pieces apart adding on extra, according to your cup size shown above in the size guide.
Cut a line across perpendicular to the line A, move so the pattern is aligned at the lower edge. Place a piece of paper behind each open section and tape in position.
This is now an increased bust dart.
REDUCING A BUST DART SIZE
For cup sizes AA and A, you will need to reduce the size of the dart according to the measurements in the Size guide above. Instead of opening out the sections A, B and C you will need to close them, overlapping the pattern as shown below.
So its exactly the same as increasing the dart but in reverse. Secure the over lap sections with sticky tape.
So, with a bit of know how, you can see its easy to make adjustments to your pattern. It pays to spend a little time prior to making your garment to get the fit just right. After adjusting your pattern, why not make a test garment out of cheaper fabric, or make up just a section of the garment beforehand such as just the Bodice Front and Back, It will allow you to relax in the knowledge that, being tried and tested, your project fit will fit correctly and will be a joy to wear. And, of course, after you have made your pattern adjustments, you can use the pattern piece again and again.
Heres a simple hack, made from the Ursula pattern in a reversible boiled wool, a fabric that looks exactly the same on both sides. This gives it a more relaxed oversized look (this hack is not possible if your fabric isn’t reversible). In a nutshell I left the back belt off, no hems, no facings or front folded edge just a simple rectangle piece added on to the back neck. For full details about how to make the hack version, scroll down to the end of this blogpost.
You can buy a pattern via my website, click on the link below
Ursula coatigan, inspired by a bygone era, and her namesake Ursula Andress….what a woman!
This stylish unlined duster coat/coatigan, round neck in two lengths; long or jacket length, with rounded pocket details, three or four covered buttons with large snap fasteners and the three quarter length sleeves gives an air of the 1960s.
Make in woollens such as wool mix jacquards and checks or plain boiled wool in vibrant colours for Autumn/Winter or Linen and Linen mix fabrics for Spring/Summer. Its a versatile pattern for all seasons! Here is a link to some wonderful British wool fabrics at reasonable prices.
Why not team up with jeggings, jeans, long skirts and a polo neck top for a sixties look.
8 Templates: FRONT, BACK, SLEEVE, FRONT FACING, BACK FACING, POCKET, POCKET LINING and BACK BELT
Here is the measurements guide:
Sew 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Topstitching –sew 4mm approx. from seam with a straight stitch length at 2.8mm. Stay stitching- a line of straight stitch to prevent stretching
WORKING WITH BOILED WOOL TIP: pop a walking foot on your machine and use a ballpoint needle no.90 which helps give a better sewing experience
HOW TO MAKE URSULA COATIGAN
SEWING THE BACK BELTThe Back belt is optional but I think its nice feature to the rear angle! Stitch down each side, then turn inside out. Press.Top stitch down each side.Pin the back belt to the back piece at each side. Machine tack within the seam allowance.
SEWING THE NECK FACING
Sew the (interfaced) facing pieces RST. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge.
SEWING THE POCKETS
Finish the outer edge of the pockets and pocket lining pieces. Pin the pocket piece at each side matching the curved edge. Sew. Clip the seam allowances.
Turn to the WS and topstitch 1cm away from the edge..Pin the pocket lining piece to the pocket at the outer edge. Sew.Tack stitch at the sections above the pocket curve to secure.
SEWING THE FRONT TO BACKPin, then sew the front to back at the shoulder edges. Finish the raw edges together. Press towards the back. Top stitch on the right side. Staystitch around the neck edge.
Sew the front to back at the side edges. Finish the raw edge. Hem the lower edge of the front and back piece.Pin the facing to the Front at the top side edge. Sew. Press the seam allowances open.
Pin the neck facing to the neck edge, match up the cross seams. Hand tack stitch all around the neck edge. Sew.Nick the seam allowance all around.Fold over to the reverse side. Hand tack stitch around the neck facing. Fold over 1cm at the centre front edge. Press. Hand tack stitch down the front to secure.
Stitch around the neck facing and down each long centre front band.
SLEEVESPin the sleeves RST at the long side edges. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Turn under the cuff hem, press, pin. Stitch.
Pin the sleeve to the body, align the back of the sleeve head (see template) to the back. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Topstitch on the RS.Pin, hand tack the pocket to the body. On the reverse side, stitch around the pocket with a longer stitch length. This will define the pocket on the RS. Like this……
Cover the buttons then stitch on some large snap fasteners in the position as shown on the template.
There you have it!
How to make an URSULA HACK JACKET
So you may have seen my show on the 22nd October on the Sewing Street where I demonstrated my Ursula Coatigan. You can catch up here on the YOUTUBE link. Scroll on to the fourth hour for the Ursula demo.
You can also purchase this boiled wool from my ETSYshop whilst stocks last.
So, the lovely folk at Sewing Street sent me some boiled wool to make up a sample and use to demonstrate on the show. When it arrived, I have to say, I was a little bit worried, because it was significantly thicker than other boiled wools I’ve used before. Well, I gave it a go and found that if you used a walking foot (recommended anyway for any bulky fabric), a good strong 90 needle, and if you folded the hems with a single fold and left them raw, then you’d be fine.
The SS boiled wool was like felt, it didn’t fray at the edges at all, so I thought leave them be. This 100% wool fabric was, I thought, a bargain price and would keep you nice and toastie, and no nasty synthetics! Wonderful!
Well I stitched the pockets, and the side edges, inserted the sleeves and all looked good. At this stage, I didn’t hem the lower edge, nor the sleeve cuffs.
Then to the facing bit. I popped the body on to a mannequin and started to look at Ursula in a new way. The pre-facing, waterfall neckline looked quite interesting, and it gave me an idea.
So I left the facings off, and the back belt, I didn’t fold back the centre front either. I just left it un-hemmed and I thought it looked very Japanese in style. Then I thought- what about if I stitched on a simple rectangle of fabric at the back neck to make a collar? oooo ….nice!So heres a diagram to show what I did. (please excuse the rather primitive drawing btw).
These are measurements you need to cut the rectangle for your size:
Size 8= 9cm x 49cm, Size 10= 9.5cm x 50cm, Size 12= 10cm x 51.5cm
Size 14= 10.5cm x 53cm, Size 16= 11cm x 54cm, Size 18= 11.5 x 55cm
Size 20= 12cm x 56.5cm
The rectangle is pinned to the wrong side of the garment at the neck edge, aligning the centre points of the back neck to the centre point of the rectangle. Then stitch it on with a 5mm (1/4″) seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down if you think it needs it. Then, fold the rectangle back which then covers the seam. To balance out the raw edges, I decided to leave the sleeve cuff edges raw and the lower edge too. I think it looked good like that. The overall style is now quite oversized and relaxed and I really love it! In fact, I haven’t taken it off since I made it
BUTTONS So I made up the four self cover buttons, which to be honest, with this fabric, were quite a challenge. I did get there in the end, heres a few tips which hopefully may make it easier for you:
Flatten your disc of fabric as much as possible with a steam iron, bash with a hammer or pull it apart so its as thin as possible.
Push your fabric under the claws as much as possible, I used a tool like this one (below), which really helped, but you could use the end of a screw driver or old scissors.
Then, getting the metal button backing disc on was tricky, brute force is needed, but if you really cant get it on then I recommend covering the back with a small disc of fabric with a small slit in the centre for the wire loop then, sewing the button fabric together underneath to hold it together, then stick the disc over the top with fabric glue. In a lot of ways I think this is actually better than getting the metal back on because then you don’t see any metal on the back at all.
Snap fasteners: Then I stitched on the poppers, to match the buttons. You could always use bought buttons rather than self cover ones or have no buttons at all.
One last thing…..
Pilling: By the way, if you are getting pilling with your boiled wool, I’ve read that it helps to spray the fabric with hairspray- I haven’t tried it myself but Im going to give it a go.
Boiled Wool Washing Instructions – Manufacturer says: A gentle cold-to-lukewarm bath (an actual bath would be good where it can spread out and not need moving about much) with a specific wool wash. Avoid agitation or wringing. Carefully rinse and roll and press in a towel to remove excess water. We strongly recommend testing a small piece first to be sure.