Here she is! A long time coming, but we finally got there. The very fabulous Betty dress pattern ta dah!

Now I have to admit, I don’t normally do pretty pink, I’m normally a practical blue kinda girl, but I do think this colour shows up the detail of the dress quite well, so thats what I went with.

So what can I say about Betty…. well, she is very easy to make, oh so comfortable to wear and well, just lovely really. She’s V-neck, button down (more about that later) with a gathered skirt section on to quite a loose fitting slightly dropped waistline, a curved detail on the side hem is a bit like a shirt style, rolled back sleeves and two patch pockets. The tie belt is optional of course, below shows you a photo of one I wear with a rather smart leather belt (link to where you can buy one at the end of this post.

Now lets talk about buttonholes. There are some people who may be put off by them or don’t want to be bothered with these small but ever so terrifying things, but fear not! Betty can be made without them quite easily. You can pop Betty on with just stitched on buttons. Do you see the blue version below? well that’s exactly what I did with this one, I wanted to live with it first before committing to them, but I’m not sure I will ever get around to doing them but hey whose going to notice!

Or, my friends, you may like to make a Betty Hack ! Its Oh so easy and I think I love this version even more than the button down version.

So this hack is even easier to make, Its got no buttons on the skirt, just on the bodice and Ive shortened it a bit too by taking  2cm off the bodice lower edge and 2cm off the top edge of the skirt. Ive popped a little tutorial at the bottom of this post so just scroll down and you will find it.

So Betty is great in all sorts of patterned and plain medium weight cotton fabrics, linen and linen mix fabrics and soft lightweight denims. Here are some links to fabric companies who stock suitable fabrics.

LINEN FABRIC 

THE DENIM COMPANY

The linen shown above is available to buy from the Etsy shop.

Heres the very lovely Amy Scarr, ex- editor of Love Sewing magazine, in her printed cotton lawn versions of Betty dress, which look just great. You can follow her sewing adventures on Instagram @almondrock_sews or almondrock.co.uk.

Fabrics courtesy of Atelier Brunette (pic 1) and Lady McElroy (pic 2).

You can similar find fabrics at  FABRIC HQ or FABRIC GODMOTHER

BUY PATTERN 

Here is all the info about sizes, finished measurements and fabric requirements.

SEWING A BETTY DRESS

Seam allowance is 1cm. RST= Right Sides Together.

Before you start here are some pattern cutting tips.

Making adjustments to Betty

You may want to make the bodice or skirt section shorter or longer.

So, if this is the case, firstly, measure for your size according to the pattern size info (shown above). Then you need to measure yourself for the desired bodice length from top of the shoulder to the desired length. Now add on 2cm to this measurement for the seam allowances.  Next, compare this length to the pattern and you may find that you require a shorter/longer length from one of the other sizes. I prefer to fold back my pattern to the desired line to keep it intact, but if you are drafting your pattern, you just trace the required line.

If you adjust the bodice length, remember its going to make the dress shorter or longer so check that measurement is good and you are happy with the adjustment. If you need to make the skirt section shorter or longer do so at the top edge of the skirt section. Its gathered at the top edge so any extra width will be lost in the gathering.

Finally adjust the button positions accordingly.

HOW TO MAKE BETTY DRESS

JOINING THE SHOULDERS

Joining the shoulder seams. Finish the raw edges, pressing towards the back. Topstitching.

SKIRT SECTION

Sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges.

Sew the skirt together at the side edges with the RST. Press.

Gather up the fabric at the top edge of the skirt section.

Attach to the bodice with the RST. Press the seam allowance upwards. Topstitch on the bodice side.

FACINGSJoin the facings front and back at the short edges with the RST. Press open. Finish the outer edge.Pin to the centre front and back neck edge. Sew. Press the facing away from the body. Understitch.

Fold back the facing at the centre lower edge with the RST. Stitch across 1cm up from the lower edge. Trim across the corner, then turn inside out, pushing out the corners with a poking tool.

Press the facing to the reverse side all around. Pin. Hand tack. Top stitch on the reverse side close to the outer edge to secure the facing.

POCKETS

Make your pockets by hemming the top edge and finishing the outer 3 edges. Press over 1cm at these 3 edges.

Pin to the body. Hand tack stitch. Topstitch close to the edge.

SLEEVES

Fold over a 4cm hem at the sleeve edge. Press. Pin. Stitch.

Fold back 2cm. Press. Secure with a few hand stitches at the underarm cross seam to secure if required.

Make your buttonholes, use the position on the template as a guide.

Make your 3 tabs by pressing inwards 1cm each long side, then fold in half. Press, stitch down each long side. Fold up 1cm each short end. Pin to the dress at the sides and centre back. Stitch across the top and lower edge to secure.

TIE BELT

Join the belt pieces together at the short sides with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.

Fold in half so the long edges are matching with the RST. Press. Stitch down one long raw side and across the short diagonal sides, leaving approx 4cm opening at the centre point for turning inside out. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.

Turn inside out through the opening. These loop turner tools are really useful for this.

Press. Topstitch all around the outer edge, which seals up the opening at the same time. Tie in a lovely big bow and woo hoo…..ready to go!

Or attach a nice leather belt .

BETTY HACK- heres how

To make the dress with no buttons on the skirt section is really easy. Just cut a back skirt piece (on the fold) instead of the two front pieces, so you just have two back skirt pieces altogether.

Cut two bodice Back pieces, instead of placing the pattern against the fold, adding a 1cm to the back seam. Sew the Back pieces together. Finish the raw edge.

Shorten the facing piece to make it the same as the bodice in length. Follow the pattern as above, but gather the back and front together in one piece and attach to the bodice, making sure the front section is crossed over correctly beforehand. Here is a summary of how to do it.

If you are interested in buying a Betty dress pattern, here is a link to the Etsy shop listing. I’ve got lots of other patterns too which you may like to check out.

Follow me on Instagram @fionahesford_sewgirl  or Facebook @sewgirluk

Copyright Fiona Hesford. 2020. Please do not copy any images from this post without prior consent. Thank you.

So here it is! …..drumroll please…….Cecily Skirt Kit. Ta dah!

Not a day goes by, when I’m wearing this skirt, when people don’t say ‘Wow! where did you get that skirt! ‘ and I can smugly reply those immortal words…. ‘I made it myself!

What I love about this skirt, is how easy and quick it is to run up, and how comfortable it is to wear. With its elasticated back waistband, you can pretty much eat what you like, without the waistband feeling tight, (something I absolutely hate, being someone who loves their grub!)

So also, you will be delighted to hear, its got pockets! ….and two of em! There are also no zips, thanks to Mr Elastico. Having said that, the skirt isn’t bulky at the front because of its flattering front pleats. Whats not to love.

Cecily skirt is quite long in length, with a maximum length of approx 75cm, but of course you could make it shorter. I love to wear mine with leggings or pedal pushers and a tee or a boxy top.

Cecily skirt kit comes in a choice of two amazing fabrics, both top quality 100% cotton. The only trouble is, I find its difficult to choose between them!

Here is the kit all packed up in a fab recycled bag…

BUY CECILY SKIRT KIT 

So… Ive made up a kit for this skirt for sizes 8-20 and here is a list of its contents:

A large format template paper pattern for sizes 8-20

1.8m (2 yards) of fabulous genuine African Dutch wax fabric – lovely and soft, 100% cotton with really zingy colours. (Its 112cm wide by the way) 

50cm of elastic (4mm wide) cut to size as follows:

Size 8=25cm, Size 10=28cm, Size 12=31cm, Size 14=34cm,

Size 16=37cm, Size 18 =40cm, Size 20=43cm 

A piece of fusible interfacing (enough for the front waistband)

A designer label

One French hair barrette 

Im popping one in your kit in case you fancy making a matching hair accessory either like this, or the little one with a button.

 

You can find a tutorial for making one of these at the bottom of the page.

 

SIZE INFO

Finished Skirt length is:

70cm (size 8), 70.5cm (size 10), 71cm (size 12), 71.5cm (size 14), 72cm (size 16), 72.5cm (size 18), 73cm (size 20).

HOW TO MAKE CECILY SKIRT 

So you have 4 paper pattern pieces: Front & Back (1), Front Waistband (2), Back Waistband (3), Pocket (4).

You’ve ironed your fabric and folded it, so that the selvedges are aligned with the RST (Right Sides Together) and laid it out nicely on a table or floor.  Pin the pieces as shown on the Layplan here.

You will need to cut:

Front & Back (1)– Cut two on the fold of the fabric.

Front Waistband (2)– Cut one *Iron fusible interfacing to the reverse side of the Front waistband only.

Back Waistband (3)– Cut one on the fold of the fabric.

Pocket (4)– Cut four from the smaller piece of fabric (two pairs).

Mark the pleat positions at the top edge with a marking pen or small nick within the seam allowance on the Front piece only. 

Now to the sewing bit (the best bit).

Remember the seam allowance is 1cm!

SEWING THE FRONT TO BACK & POCKETS.

1. Pin one pocket piece on each side of the Front and Back pieces in position as shown on the template. Sew down the straight vertical edge.

2. Press away from the Front and Back piece. Topstitch on the pocket side.

Now if you have an African skirt kit I would definitely put pleats in the front as shown below. However, if you have an indian voile kit like this one….

I would advise gathering the front instead of putting pleats in. (See step 4a)

3. Pin the pleats in the marked positions as shown on the template.

 

4. Stitch across the top edge within the seam allowance to secure the pleats. Now go to step 5.

 

GATHERING (instead of front pleats)

4a.

Instead of pleats , voile fabric can take soft gathers as its needs more cover being light in weight. So to do this set your sew machine to the maximum stitch length (usually 4 or 5) and sew a line one approx 1cm from the top edge. Its a good idea to finish your top raw edge first and remember you are only doing gathering on the front section, the back will be gathered by the elastic we are inserting later. So after sewing your line of long stitches pull the top thread only to gather up or ‘ease’ as we call this technique in the trade. Its a bit like gathering up the top of curtains if ever you’ve had this wondrous experience! So gather up the fabric to the same width as the front waistband. You can go to the next stage and adjust your gathers later.

JOINING THE FRONT TO THE BACK

5. With the RST, pin the Front piece to the Back piece at the side edges. Sew from the top of the side edge, all around the pocket to the lower edge. Repeat for the other side.

6. Finish the raw edges together. Press. Finish the top raw edge of the Front & Back all around.

WAISTBAND 

A short video about putting in the elastic

7. So with the Front Waistband interfaced and with the RST, pin then sew the waistband pieces together at the short edges. Press the seam allowances open.

8.Finish the raw outer edges of the band each side. Its easier to do this at this stage than later.

9.With the wrong sides together, fold the waistband piece in half aligning the long raw edges all around. Press.

10.Unfold the band. Cut your elastic piece in length according to your size as follows:

Size 8=25cm, Size 10=28cm, Size 12=31cm, Size 14=34cm,

Size 16=37cm, Size 18 =40cm, Size 20=43cm 

Now, pin the elastic to the side edges, just below the centre fold and approx 1.5cm away from the lower raw edge, passing it across the back waistband. Sew along the side seam each side to secure the elastic.

11. Fold back the waistband piece. Pin along the lower edge. Machine tack stitch all around, as before,  ease the fabric beyond the elastic as you go. Heres that video link again to show you how in case you missed it   video about putting in the elastic

12. Pin the waistband to the skirt top edge. Sew. Tip: ease the gathers of the fabric past the elastic as you go so you are always sewing flat fabric.

13. Press the seam allowance downwards, topstitch on the skirt side all around to secure in place.

HEMMING

Finish the raw lower edge of the Front & Back piece all around. Fold over and press a 2cm hem at the lower edge or length as required. Pin. Sew close to the edge. Press.

Pop it on and admire your handiwork!

MAKING A MATCHING HAIR RAG ACCESSORY

Using your French hair barrette as a base, cut (or tear) long thin strips of fabric approx 1cm wide. Cut the long strips into 10 pieces approx 10-12cm long.

Tie a strip of fabric on to the top metal bar on the barrette with one tight knot, leave a long end. Repeat with the other strips, pushing them up tightly, squashing them together as much as possible. Trim the fabric ends or leave as long as you like. Trim with pinking shears if you have a pair for added jagged edges. There you have it!

Or using a small barrette make a charming little rosette with a centre button to adorn your hair.

 

CECILY SKIRT KIT IS NOW AVAILABLE TO BUY ON MY ETSY SHOP 

 

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

 

 

Home made bags are a thing of beauty! They are also very addictive, once you’ve made one, you’ll be coming back for more, because they can be simple to make, quick and don’t take a lot of fabric so, like this one, they make great beginners projects.

And why not make a matching tissue holder like this one. It makes the perfect gift too.

So here is how you make the Tote bag and matching tissue holder. The finished Tote bag measures 39cm x 35cm with long handles measuring 100cm and an inner pocket.

TOTE BAG and tissue holder

You will need:

50 cm* of outer fabric, lining fabric and iron on medium or heavy interfacing.               (*if your fabric has a one way direction you will need 60cm x 112cm of outer fabric). ETSY SHOP AFRICAN FABRIC HALF METRE LISTING  as seen below 

A reel of thread.

 

LAYPLAN

Using the layplan above as a guide, cut out the following pieces:

Outer fabric–

Cut two pieces 42cm x 36cm (Bag Front and Back)

Cut two pieces 36cm x 8cm (Bag inner top band)

Cut two pieces 7 cm x 100cm (Bag straps)

Cut three pieces 10cm x 15cm (tissue holder)

Lining fabric–

Cut two pieces 36cm x 36cm (Bag lining)

Cut one piece 16cm x 14cm (inner bag pocket)

Cut one piece 10cm x 15cm (tissue holder)

This is what you do:

MAKE THE STRAPS Fold the straps in 1cm each long side, press. Then fold in half so the folded edges are aligned. Pin. Stitch down each long side, close the edge. Press. Place to one side.

TOP INNER BAND With the RST* (right sides together) pin the top band to the lining at the longest edge. Sew a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowance upwards towards the band. Top stitch on the right side a few millimetres from the seam line on the band side. Press.

Now pin the handles to the top edge of the inner band 12cm apart, positioned centrally (ie leave a gap 6cm either side of the centre point before the strap). See how they are hanging downwards, These handles are short, if yours are longer then tie them to keep them from getting in the way. Stitch across the straps at the top, 5mm from the top edge, to secure them in place, so you can remove the pins

POCKET  Make a small hem at the top edge of the pocket by folding over 1cm press, then fold again 1cm, press. Sew.

Fold over 1cm at the remaining un-hemmed sides. Pin to the lining approx 2cm down from the inner band positioned centrally. Topstitch around the three folded edge sides close (3mm) to the outer edge of the pocket. Press.

Now pin one outer bag front piece on top of the inner band and lining piece at the top edge with the RST. Sew across with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowance flat open. Top stitch on the band edge close to the seam line. You can see that the handle is encased in the seam and is now secure.

Repeat for the other outer bag back and inner band/lining pieces.

CONSTRUCTING THE BAG so now place one bag piece open flat on a table with the right side facing up. Place the second bag piece on top with the RST. Align the lining to lining and bag outer pieces, align the raw side and lower edges all around making sure the cross seams match up. Pin all around.

Now sew all around the bag with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a 10cm opening in the bottom of the lining. Trim across the seam allowance corners.Now turn your bag inside out through the opening in the lining.

Push the lining into the bag, pushing out the corners inside with a pokey tool (knit needle/ chopstick or a blunt pencil that kind of thing).  Press. And there, my friends, you have a lovely bag. Pat your self on the back!

TISSUE HOLDER Fold and press in half two tissue holder outer pieces with the long sides matching and the wrong sides together. Lay one tissue holder lining piece and one outer piece on top with the wrong sides together. Lay the folded pieces on top of the outer piece with the folded edges at the centre. Pin all around. Sew all around with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish the raw edge with a zig zag stitch. Trim across the seam allowance corners to reduce the bulk. Turn inside out, pushing out the corners. Press. Pop a pack of tissues inside and voila! All done.

Copyright Fiona Hesford. All rights Reserved. Please contact me if you wish to use the text or photographs. 

Cushions how we love them!

Square ones, round ones, plain, multicoloured they support the backs of the world! They give a colour pop to our sofas, garden furniture and beds, like pieces of art brightening up our homes.

A cushion is a wonderful thing. As my husband put it “what is it with women and cushions?” Well, he’s the first one to bolster himself up with a morning cuppa in bed, so I think that men secretly love them just as much as we do!

Anyway down to business…..

HOW TO MAKE A SQUARE ENVELOPE CUSHION

Here is a tutorial about how to make an envelope cushion. To make a 16″ square envelope cushion you will need:

50cm of main fabric, a reel of thread, two 25mm buttons (optional) and a cushion pad inner (polyester or feather).

You can get pads here on ebay

CUSHION PAD SUPPLIER 

You can make a cushion from all sorts of fabric, but if you fancy making in African fabric you can see my selection via my ETSY SHOP where I have half metres available and patchwork packs. Here is a selection of some of them.

By the way, I also have a small video on Facebook  and Instagram showing you my fabrics in my Funky Kitchen and Lounging around showing you my cushions in situ. Just saying!

So you have a good pair of scissors and a ruler, you need get cutting out the pieces.

For a 16″ cushion you need to:

Cut out one piece 43cm x 43cm (front) and two pieces 43cm x 35cm (back).

*With the two back pieces, fold over and press 1cm then again 2cm at one long edge on each piece. Pin, then sew close to the inner fold to make two back pieces with hemmed finished edges.If you would like to insert a buttonhole and button fastening, do so at this stage after making the back hems.

You may have a one step buttonhole attachment – see below for the different types.

Here are links to You tube video tutorials about how to make a one or four step buttonholes:

How to make a one step buttonhole 

How to make a four step buttonhole

Not sure which one you have with your machine? Well if you have an attachment like this in pic 1 its a four step:

Or a one step buttonhole attachment looks like this:

if you don’t have either, its possible your machine doesn’t buttonhole, in which case, leave your cushion opening open on the back, thats no big deal!

So place one or two buttonholes on the back, I like to place one centrally on the hem or two approx 15cm apart. The buttons are stitched on at the end.

If you don’t want to add buttons, just skip this stage.

Now to sew the cushion together.

With the right sides of the fabric together, matching the raw three sides, place one back piece at each side on top of the front piece so that the hemmed sides overlap at the centre. Pin all around.

Sew all around the outer edge with a 1cm seam allowance, drop the needle into the fabric at the corners when pivoting at the corner to avoid losing your place.

Zig zag the raw edge all around to stop fraying.

Trim across the seam allowance corners, this reduces the bulk and makes the corners more pointy.

Turn inside out and push out the corners with a poking tool, a knitting needle, chopstick or scissors end are all good but take care not to poke a hole in your corner! (been there done that!).

Press and insert a cushion pad. Let your cushion relax into its pad and then mark the button position through the centre of each buttonhole. Sew on the buttons in position.

Enjoy! **

HOW TO MAKE AN 18″ SQUARE PATCHWORK CUSHION

Now who fancies making a patchwork cushion? Heres an 18″ one I made from African fabric.

I have some fabric packs in stock on my Etsy shop so check them out there.

To make a patched front (I like to have a plain linen back) but you could also patch the back too.

To make an 18″ patch cushion you will need to cut:

FRONT PIECE: 9 squares of different fabric  16 cm x 16cm (6 1/4″)

BACKING: one piece 47cm x 47cm (18.5″ x 18.5″) (linen, cotton fabric is good) if you are putting a zip in or two pieces 47cm x 35cm for an envelope style backing. Repeat in Batting* if you would like to quilt your fabric

BATTING*: use a bamboo one for eco friendliness heres a good one, Polyester or cotton thin batting would also work. EBAY BATTING SUPPLIER

PATCHING TOGETHER THE PIECES

Arrange your squares in the formation you require and in 3 rows of 3.

With the right sides of the fabric together and the raw edges aligned, pin pieces 1 & 2 together and sew with a 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance. Then sew piece 3 to the piece 2 you have just sewn. Press the seam allowance to one side. Repeat for the remaining 2 sets of three squares so you have 3 sets of 3 altogether. Tip: press your seam allowances in opposite directions on each band. 

When you have completed three strips of 3 squares, join the first band to the second and then the second to the third, again with the right sides of the fabric together and raw edges aligned.

If you would like to quilt your front piece this is the stage to lay your batting to the reverse side of your front piece and back piece(s). Pin or fuse with fabric spray glue if you have it.

Quilt the front piece (and back too if you would like more stitch detailing) as required, you may need to insert a walking foot on your machine to ease the flow of the fabric.

 Press. Now continue with the instructions for constructing the cushion same as the envelope cushion above * to **

Now, if you would like to make a cushion with half triangle squares (its the one shown above at the back) just cut out 9 slightly larger squares 6 1/2″ (16.5cm). Make your triangles by following this video tutorial…

HOW TO MAKE HALF TRIANGLE SQUARES

When you have your 9 half triangle squares completed,  patch them together as shown in the previous tutorial for the patchwork cushion.

Then follow the instructions as before for making the envelope cushion as from * to **

Now to make a circular cushion with segments like this one

HOW TO MAKE A ROUND SEGMENTED CUSHION

To make a cushion like this one you will need to download and print off two copies of this file for the template, make sure you print at 100% scale and check the 5cm measure on the file:

Cushion Segment Template download 

You need 6 pieces of different fabric prints 25cm x 25cm (10″  x 10″), backing fabric 50cm x 50cm, two 25mm-30mm buttons, one round 18″ cushion pad. Ebay cushion pad shop.

From the constructed template cut out one piece each in the different fabrics. Sew two pieces together with the long sides aligned and the right sides of the fabric together*.  Press. Then sew on the third segment to the two part piece so you have two pieces of 3 joined segments.

Then sew the two semi circle pieces of 3 segments together, aligning the longest edges with the RST* Press. You can add batting to the reverse side if you would like.

Finally with the RST, pin the circle piece to the square backing piece. Stitch all around the curved outer edge 1cm from the edge but leave one section unstitched for inserting the cushion. Insert the cushion. Stitch up the opening with a small slip stitch. Sew on the buttons at the centre either side, passing the needle from one side to the other and pulling tight so that it pulls the cushion in at the centre and covers the corner bits.

MAKING A CO ORDINATING LAMPSHADEFrom a half metre length of fabric you can cover a lampshade like this one. You need one 30cm diametre lampshade kit from:

LAMPSHADE KIT

It comes with full instructions and theres also a video here that helps in the making:

LAMPSHADE TUTORIAL

Hope you enjoy making lounge accessories and they light up your life.

Copyright Fiona Hesford. All rights reserved. Please consult me if you would like to use any of the images/text shown on this blog.

So finally she’s here…. Mildred!

  BUY PATTERN 

As you can see from the pictures above, Mildred is A-line shape, in a choice of short or long lengths.  She’s got adjustable shoulder straps attached with buttons, one large front pocket, two cheeky back pockets and bags of practical style. Whats not to love.

I wear this pinafore a lot. I’ve made it in 8 oz soft denim (see above), needlecord (see below), linen and a linen mix. Here is a link to a company that sells wonderful denims that I would heartily recommend.

The Denim Company 

And if you would like to use linen theres always these guys…..

Fabric Inspirations 

To say this dress is quick to make is an understatement. An afternoon’s sewing and you are done. I couldn’t wait to try it on and was very reluctant to take it off! Its very roomy because I wanted to be able to wear a jumper underneath in Winter and a tee in Summer. I really love the big front pocket, a great place for plonking glasses, ideal for me as I’m someone who spends half her life looking for them…. groan! Sometimes I sew a vertical line down the centre of the front pocket to divide it up, or split the pocket pattern and make two front pockets instead of one.  The back pockets are just the right size too. Mildred was inspired by an apron style so is a practical for sewers to keep their equipment whilst on the job!

By the way, lets talk about topstitching. I didnt topstitch my Mildred (pictured), I was worried about wobbly lines but you could easily do so with either some contrast colour  thread and lengthen the stitch, or use a special top stitch thread for a more defined line. Or why not do a double line of stitching around the pockets.

I always find using my walking foot a fantastic help when topstitching because it helps glide over those bulky seams that can sometimes obstruct the flow of the stitching. If you’ve got one I would recommend popping it on, if you haven’t just lengthen your stitch when it comes to this bit.

A walking foot

 

What else is there to say about this beauty? Well you may wonder why it’s called Mildred? Well, when I was courting my husband (or was it the other way around? hmm) we enjoyed hanging out at a place called Mildred’s cafe in London’s Soho, I think it was one of the first Vegan cafes in London, anyway its a fab place and still going strong. I really loved the name ever since.

Mildred can be made in a shorter length, I made a shorter one in printed needlecord. It looks great with knee high boots and woolly tights in Winter.

Here is all the info you need to know about Mildred.

PATTERN ERRATA 

please note the text above the layplan should read:

Here are a few step by step photos to give you an idea about….

HOW TO MAKE MILDRED

Firstly the straps are sewn down each long side and one short side with the right sides together (RST), trim the seam allowances to 5mm. Nick across the corners at the straight ends. Then, turn them inside out.

These loop turners are quite good tools for doing this. If you haven’t got one, get one! They are cheap to buy and I’m sure you will find them really really useful.

Press them, then top stitch like so…

Join the back pieces RST, Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch. By the way, its a good idea to finish your raw vertical edges beforehand either with an overlocker, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.

Now there are no pics here about the pockets, but I would advise attaching them at this stage. In the pattern it leaves this bit to the end, which allows you to re-position them to suit you if you want to, but if you are happy with the position as shown on the template, its a lot easier to sew them on before you sew the front and back together. Just saying!

Next pin, tack stitch the straps at the slanted edge at the back.

Join the interfaced facing pieces at the sides with the RST. Press. Finish the raw outer edge.

Join the front to the back at the side edges.

Insert the facing. pin, matching up the cross seams. Hand tack.

Sew! Nick the seam allowances, trim across the corners.

Turn it to the RS, push out the edges. Press. Topstitch along the upper edge.

sometimes I hand stitch the facing on the inside with a few stitches at the facing side seams to secure it more.

Finally, attach a button on each strap and buttonholes on the top of the front bib if you want to be able to undo it. If you don’t want to bother with buttonholes, just sew the strap and button on together so that it’s fixed. Tip: try it on first and adjust the strap to the correct length first, pin then sew.

Here is a handy link to making buttonholes.

Ta dah! Easy peasy pattern don’t you think?

This is the back view. Some great pockets with a little bit slanted on the corners.

If you would like to make your own Mildred Pinafore Dress from a pattern, here is a link to my ETSY SHOP  

Happy sewing!

INCREASING A BUST DART SIZE

Patterns such as Cecily Dress by Sewgirl, are usually made for a bust size B, so if you need to increase the size, you will need to make an adjustment known as a full bust adjustment (FBA). You will need to add on the following according to your bust cup size:

Size Guide:

AA cup= reduce by 1cm. A cup= reduce by 6mm. B cup= NO CHANGE.  

C cup= add  1cm. D cup = add 1.9cm. DD cup= add 3.2cm.

1. Draw three lines as shown by the red in the picture A, B and C (below)

Line A extends from the Apex point* vertically to the lower edge.

Line B extends from the Apex point to a point a third of the way up on the lower armhole.

Line C extends from the Apex point to the side seam through the middle of the leg of the dart.

2. Cut the lines as follows:

Line A cut from the apex to the lower edge.

Line B cut from the apex to the armhole edge but stop a few millimetres before the edge.

Line C cut from the side seam to the apex but stop a few millimetres before the apex.

3. Spread the pieces apart adding on extra, according to your cup size shown above in the size guide.

Cut a line across perpendicular to the line A, move so the pattern is aligned at the lower edge. Place a piece of paper behind each open section and tape in position.

This is now an increased bust dart.

REDUCING A BUST DART SIZE

For cup sizes AA and A, you will need to reduce the size of the dart according to the measurements in the Size guide above. Instead of open the sections A, B and C you will need to close them, overlapping the pattern as shown below.

Long version front view in wool mix jacquard.

Long version back view.

Short jacket version in boiled wool

You can buy a pattern via my website, click on the link below

BUY PATTERN 

A stylish unlined duster coat/coatigan, round neck in two lengths; long or jacket length, with rounded pocket details, three or four covered buttons with large snap fasteners and the three quarter length sleeves gives an air of a bygone era.

Make in woollens such as wool mix jacquards and checks or plain boiled wool in vibrant colours for Autumn/Winter or Linen and Linen mix fabrics for Spring/Summer. Its a versatile pattern for all seasons! Here is a link to some wonderful British wool fabrics at reasonable prices.

SHOP WOOLLEN FABRICS 

       

SHOP LINEN FABRICS 

Why not team up with jeggings, jeans, long skirts and a polo neck top for a sixties look.

8 Templates: FRONT, BACK, SLEEVE, FRONT FACING, BACK FACING, POCKET, POCKET LINING and BACK BELT

Here is the measurements guide:

Sew 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Topstitching –sew 4mm approx. from seam with a straight stitch length at 2.8mm. Stay stitching- a line of straight stitch to prevent stretching

WORKING WITH BOILED WOOL TIP: pop a walking foot on your machine and use a ballpoint needle no.90 which helps give a better sewing experience

HOW TO MAKE URSULA COATIGAN

SEWING THE BACK BELTThe Back belt is optional but I think its nice feature to the rear angle! Stitch down each side, then turn inside out. Press.Top stitch down each side.Pin the back belt to the back piece at each side. Machine tack within the seam allowance.

SEWING THE NECK FACING

Sew the (interfaced) facing pieces RST. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge.

SEWING THE POCKETS

Finish the outer edge of the pockets and pocket lining pieces. Pin the pocket piece at each side matching the curved edge. Sew. Clip the seam allowances.

Turn to the WS and topstitch 1cm away from the edge..Pin the pocket lining piece to the pocket at the outer edge. Sew.Tack stitch at the sections above the pocket curve to secure.

SEWING THE FRONT TO BACKPin, then sew the front to back at the shoulder edges. Finish the raw edges together. Press towards the back. Top stitch on the right side. Staystitch around the neck edge.

Sew the front to back at the side edges. Finish the raw edge. Hem the lower edge of the front and back piece.Pin the facing to the Front at the top side edge. Sew. Press the seam allowances open.

Pin the neck facing to the neck edge, match up the cross seams. Hand tack stitch all around the neck edge. Sew.Nick the seam allowance all around.Fold over to the reverse side. Hand tack stitch around the neck facing. Fold over 1cm at the centre front edge. Press. Hand tack stitch down the front to secure.

Stitch around the neck facing and down each long centre front band.

SLEEVESPin the sleeves RST at the long side edges. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Turn under the cuff hem, press, pin. Stitch.

Pin the sleeve to the body, align the back of the sleeve head (see template) to the back. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press. Topstitch on the RS.Pin, hand tack the pocket to the body. On the reverse side, stitch around the pocket with a longer stitch length. This will define the pocket on the RS. Like this……

 

 

Cover the buttons then stitch on some large snap fasteners in the position as shown on the template.

There you have it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lottie Duster, a coat or dress depending on what fabric you use. Pop it on as an extra layer in Autumn or Spring, its a useful addition to your wardrobe. Easy to make, suitable for adventurous beginners. If you are fazed by the buttonholes just leave them out, personally, I wear Lottie open most of the time anyway.

Make Lottie duster coat in lovely linen, delightful denim or for a dress version a medium weight viscose fabric. Here is a link to a great linen supplier, the one above is made in a Linen Union 55% linen, 45% cotton in colour Windsor Blue, but there are lots of other beautiful colours in the range.

 SHOP LINEN FABRIC

Lottie Duster has a four button closure, raglan sleeves, revere collar, optional tie belt and flap detail pockets…….Its a classic!

Lottie is available as a hard copy pattern and also as a digital download here…BUY LOTTIE PATTERN 

Here are some essential size and fabric requirements information…..

You can watch my demonstration on The Sewing Quarter (Wednesday 18th Sept 2019) at 9am and 11am.

SEWING  QUARTER  SHOW

Getting started

Working with linen is a joy but it does crease rather, so I usually have my bottle of spray starch at the ready.

Firstly iron your fabric, I like to pop a blanket on my work surface and iron my fabric in situ, I find it a lot easier. I use paper weights to keep the larger pieces stable and pin just the smaller pieces. Once you have cut out the all pieces you just need to interface the back neck facing. I don’t interface any other piece because I think the facing needs to be kept soft and fluid.

Here are pictures of the step by step stages of making Lottie coat with edited text from the pattern with a few extra tips, so you can see if its something you might like to make before you buy.

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM

If you are the smaller end of your size i.e. a size 8/12/16/20 then you could sew a 1.5cm seam allowance to compensate.

Use an overlocker to finish the raw edges or sew a zig zag stitch or pink with pinking shears.

THIS IS WHAT YOU DO……….

COLLARThe collar is made by sewing the outer curved edge without the notches then after nicking and trimming the seam allowance its turned inside out, pressed then top stitched. Then tack stitch along the raw edge to hold together. Place to one side.

FACINGSAfter interfacing the back facing, pin to the front facing at the shoulders. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Turn under the outer edge 1cm and press. Then stitch. Turn under the lower edge of the facing 1cm and stitch.

JOINING THE SLEEVES Sew the front sleeve to the front at the slanted edge. Join to the back sleeve. Join the back sleeve to the back. Finish the raw edges. Press. Repeat for the other side.

Join the front to back at the side seams, leave the lower section open for the side slits. Finish the raw edges above the slit section. Press.

SIDE SLITSNick the seam allowance just above the slit section to open the seam at the lower section.  Fold over the side slits at the raw edge 1cm then again 2cm. Press. Sew.

Press under the hem at the lower front edge 1cm then again 2cm. Sew.

COLLAR & FACINGSStarting at the centre of the back neck, pin the collar at the centre point to the neck edge matching up the notches to the sleeve seams.Starting at the back neck, pin the facing piece at the centre of the back facing with the RS together to the collar.

Pin the facing all the way down the front edge at each side.With the lower edge of the facing turned under and stitched 1cm, align at the lower edge.Hand Tack!You might like to mark the curved stitch line with an invisible pen to help you as it is important that both sides are the same.

Stitch!

Nick the curved seam allowances. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.Pin to the reverse side and press so that the seam line is aligned with the fold. Push out the collar with a poking tool to get the curves.

Pin the facing all around.

Top stitch all around 1cm from the edge.

Make a hem at the sleeve raw edge. Fold over 1cm then again 3cm. Press. Pin. Stitch.

POCKETS Pin the pockets RS together. Stitch all around leaving a small opening at one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Nick the curved corners.Turn inside out, push out the corners with a poking tool. Press well, aligning the seam line to the fold. Top stitch all around. Press over the flap section as shown on the template. Pin to the coat in position as shown on the pattern. Tack stitch to hold. Sew all around a second line of stitching close to the outer edge and parallel to the top stitching. Reinforce the corners at the top just below the flap fold. Sew on a button at each pocket or leave without.

TIE BELT (optional)Pin the tie belt pieces RS together. Sew all around, leave a small opening at the centre for turning. Trim the seam allowance and nick the curved corners. Turn the tie inside out and push out the curved ends with a poking tool. Press well so that the seam line is in line with the fold all around.

Topstitch all around the outer edge.

BELT LOOP

Fold the loop piece in half then fold in 1cm each long side. Press. Fold again in half. Press.

Top stitch down each long side. Cut into two equal pieces. Press over 1cm at each end. Attach to the coat at each side in position as shown on the template with a box stitch.Sew your buttonholes. Use the template as a guide to the position.One last thing, you may like to insert small pieces of wondaweb under the facing to secure the facing in place. You could also stitch a few stitches at the shoulder seam to secure the neck facing.

One last thing….why not make a gorgeous neck tie scarf like the one below, with just a half metre of hand woven indian cotton fabric from slubbedprints.co.uk

Voila!

For more Sewgirl news follow me on instagram or sign up to my newsletter via my website. All the very best to you X Fiona

 

 

 

Edith – An artists smock style loose fitting tunic for everyday wear. Straightforward to make with easy sew long sleeves, a deep round neck, lots of cross seams and topstitching (oh yes I do love topstitching!) and two inset pockets. Edith has an open loop and button back neck detail so its easy to get on and off. Theres lots of room in this tunic to move, eat and do what you will!

The finished length is on the knee or just above. See below for the finished garment measurements.

Please note that the horizontal pocket seam is designed to sit approx 5cm (2″) below the waistline. You can sew a single or double line of topstitching as you prefer.Heres a close up of those nifty inset pockets which are hidden within the seam line. Before you start, its a good idea to measure where the pocket seam line will be on you. If you need to make any adjustments to the length of the upper and lower body sections, you can do this before you cut out. by tracing off the pattern and making alterations. Just extend or shorten the lower edge of the upper front and back by sliding the pattern down or up, then match up at the sides. Repeat for the lower section.

The Back neck opening with a rouleau loop, shown below, is such a good technique to get under your sewing belt.

Or you could also make a sleeveless smock top version like this one:

I made it 12cm shorter on the lower front and back section only. I didn’t attach the sleeves, just turned under a small 1cm hem and stitched a double row of topstitching.

To shorten the pattern just mark out the length up from the lower edge, then slide the pattern down and redraw the lower curved edge.

I also tried topstitched above the pocket seam which is an alternative method which also looks good.

Please note: For a shorter Smock Top version you will need 50cm less fabric than the pattern states for your size. 

A Note about Topstitching. If  you prefer to have contrast colour top stitching, use a different coloured thread in the needle and the background colour in the bobbin. You don’t have to use a special topstitch thread, which gives a more defined line of stitching like you get on jeans. I used a quilting thread which worked well, but an upholstery thread could also be good. 

If using a thread that is the same colour as the background for the topstitching, select one that is slightly darker in colour, you will find that your stitching looks so much better.

The pattern states to topstitch as you go, but if you are using a contrast thread, try to group several stages of topstitching together to avoid having to constantly change your needle thread colour. Better still, you could thread up another sewing machine (if you have one) with the contrast thread.

Extend your stitch length to 2.6 – 2.8mm and sew approx 5mm from the seamline. Sew one or two lines of stitching if you prefer. I like to pop my machine settings on needle position to the far left (there is a setting for this on most machines) and line up the seamline to the centre line on the presser foot which really helps to keep straight and even. When topstitching the front pocket edge, move your needle position to the far left, align the side of the foot to the seamline and sew 5mm approx from the pocket seamline.

Why not try inserting a ‘Stitch in the ditch’ foot attachment (or otherwise known as a. ‘Edge stitch foot’ ) if you have one to help as a guide for topstitching. It looks like this……

AN EDGE STITCH FOOT

There is information about the cutting guide and layplans in the pattern which you can purchase here:

BUY EDITH PATTERN

I love making Edith in floppy linen mix fabrics or denim. Here is a link to a fab supplier of linen and in particular the linen/cotton mix fabric in masses of great colours and not expensive.

FABRIC INSPIRATIONS.CO.UK 

This is what you do….

First sew your upper back pieces together. Finish off the seams. Press.Then repeat with the upper front pieces and the lower back pieces.Finish the outer 3 sides of the pockets.Pin the pockets to the upper front and lower front in position as shown on the template.Press downwards on the upper front and upwards on the lower front. Topstitch along the top edge of the 4 pockets in non contrast thread.Pin the upper front to the lower front with the RST (right sides together). Sew across all around the pockets. Press.Join the front to back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance towards the back. Topstitch.

Staystitch around the neck edge all around. This is a line of stitching within the seam allowance all around to prevent stretching.

NECK FACINGS

Interface the reverse side of the neck facing pieces. Join together at the short sides. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge all around.Pin to the neck edge. Hand tack stitch all around .Snip!  Clip the curved seam allowances to allow it to sit flat when its turned to the right side. Don’t forget to trim across the corners too.Press to the reverse side. Align the seam line to the fold all around.

MAKE THE ROULEAUFold the loop piece in half lengthways, press. Stitch down one long side at the raw edges leaving a long thread end. Use a loop turner to turn it inside out or if you don’t have one, use a blunt ended needle tied with the thread end, pass through the tube, pulling gently through and out the other end. Press. Et voila!Insert the loop between the neck facing and upper back. Pin, adjust the length according to your button. Sew down the short edge. Trim off any excess loop ends.Turn to the RS. Oop la! one rouleau loop! Snazzy!Hand tack stitch the facing all around to secure it.Machine stitch 4cm from the neck edge all around.Pin the sleeve to the body. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Press away from the body. Topstitch. Easy peasy!Pin then sew the front to back at the side edges with the RST.Clip the curved seam allowances at the underarm section.

Hem the sleeve edge with a contrast thread. Hem the lower edge with the background colour thread. 

Of course finish off with a lovely button.

Ta dah!

Invisible zips are nice to look at, they give a professional finish to your garment and with a bit of practise are actually not difficult to insert when you know how.

This is what a concealed zip looks like…..

FRONT

BACK

You will need to insert on your machine a concealed zip foot or just a standard zip foot will do (actually I prefer it!)

A  concealed zip foot looks like the first image but make sure its one thats compatible with your machine. The second one is a standard zip foot.

 

This is what it looks like when its been inserted.You can see that also the cross seams are matched up perfectly, which is what you are aiming for when making any garment.Before you start, take a look at the back of your invisible zipper. See how the coils of the zipper curl toward the back? This is what makes the zipper less visible than a normal zipper. You will need to uncurl those coils by gently ironing the zipper flat first with the tip of a warm iron. This lets you stitch much closer to the coils.

Lay your zipper wrong side up, with the zipper open. Set your iron on warm (or the synthetic setting). Use your fingers to uncurl the teeth of the zipper while pressing it flat with the tip of your iron. Do this on both sides.

Lay your garment right side up, facing you. Place one side of the open zipper face down on the fabric and lined up one zip outside edge with one side of the fabric raw edge. NB there is a 1cm seam allowance with Cecily dress, however, if you have a 1.5cm seam allowance, then place with a 5mm space between the zip and the outside edge. Pin in position, with Cecily dress start just below the dart. If you have a cross seam (at the waistline for example) then mark the back of your zip each side so that you ensure your cross seams match up after sewing in your zipper. Hand tack.

Now instead of hand tacking, you could use quilters 1/4″ tape to temporarily adhere the zip to the fabric side edge before you sew it in.Stick a piece either side of the back of the zip.

Having inserted the invisible zipper foot into your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. If you don’t have an invisible zip foot, use a standard zip foot and nudge the needle over so it lines up with the coil underneath or as near to the teeth as possible.

Make sure your cross seams are aligned.Sew slowly as far as you can and (if you are using a standard foot, as close to the teeth as you can without sewing over the teeth). Stop when you reach the end of the zipper. Backstitch. Repeat for the other side of the zip.

Close the zipper up. Pin together the fabric below the zip and sew a 1cm seam sewing from the previous line of stitching to the end of the fabric. Do the same at the section above the zip.

Press the seams open on the back and press the zip on the right and wrong sides so that the coils spring back into action.

There you have now mastered the art of the concealed zip!